39’ Flathead Fuel & Water Pump(s)
 

Hi everyone! Some of you might know my story but for those who don’t, I have just recently inherited my grandfathers 1939 Ford Deluxe Coupe, with a flathead V8 in it. We haven’t quite got it running yet but I have some questions regarding specific parts of it.
1. The water pump(s)
One water pump spins freely with ease but makes a little metal on metal noise while doing so.. and for the other one, it is free but only spins by using a pipe-wrench. SO.. replace one? Replace both? or is there an option to not replace either one of them and get both working properly?
2. Fuel pump
It is the original gravity fed pump but when we crank the engine, nothing comes out.. maybe there’s simply no fuel in the tank but is there any way to clear the line out to get it operating again?
Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks :)

Re: 39’ Flathead Fuel & Water Pump(s)
 

Not knowing how long the car has been sitting, I would replace both water pumps (the one which has to have a pipe wrench is a must). As far as a fuel pump…you need to know if there is gas in the tank. Personally, I would replace the fuel pump as well with one that has been rebuilt using ethanol resistant components.

Re: 39’ Flathead Fuel & Water Pump(s)
 

When you replace the water pumps don't forget there's a bolt on the inside of the water outlet. Use a six point socket on it.

Re: 39’ Flathead Fuel & Water Pump(s)
 

While your at it. replace the rubber line just before the fuel pump and check to make sure the tank and lines aren't full of crud. Many cases like this (siting unattended for a good period of time) need the tank to be replaced.

Re: 39’ Flathead Fuel & Water Pump(s)
 

Skip Haney
Punts Gorda Florida.

[email protected]
941-637-6698
He’s been doing it for many decades with high volume impellers.

Re: 39’ Flathead Fuel & Water Pump(s)
 

also check front motor mounts when changing water pumps as you will have to disconnect them.

Re: 39’ Flathead Fuel & Water Pump(s)
 

Do yourself a huge favor and send your carburetor and fuel pump to CharlieNY. Charlie Schwindler in New York, 5845 Cole Road, Orchard Park NY 14127. It will be as good as new when you get it back and will be plug and play AND will be two less things you will have NO worries about as far as your car running and knowing they are 100% right!!! You can also send him your distributor and have him set that up too, well worth it and great insurance as well

Especially IF your are sending your water pumps to Skip AND if your are doing that, include your coil with the pumps and let Skip redo the coil too......BOTH of these moves and you have eliminated MANY of your headaches and assured yourself many miles of carefree enjoyable miles!!!!

Re: 39’ Flathead Fuel & Water Pump(s)
 

The fuel pump isn’t fed by gravity, it draws the fuel from the tank.. after following the advice given above, you might be better off doing your first attempt at starting using a short hose to the pump from a small can. If that is successful you can then service/replace the fuel line from the firewall to the tank and the tank itself.......Mark

Re: 39’ Flathead Fuel & Water Pump(s)
 

YES to all above. Only thing I did differently was I bought a rebuilt distributor from Michael at Third Generation. Another great vendor.

Re: 39’ Flathead Fuel & Water Pump(s)
 

And use anti-seize on the bolt when re installing it. I use stainless.

Re: 39’ Flathead Fuel & Water Pump(s)
 

Hey Mr. Charles: Our assumption is the car has been sitting for a long time - so some good maintenance (before starting it) is in order:

1) Have BOTH water pumps rebuilt by Skip (his address was posted up above).
2) Have the fuel-pump and carb rebuilt by Charlie. The diaphragm is probably already shot and if not, will soon be with our modern fuels. When they leak, they can start a fire.
3) Pull the fuel tank and have it boiled/cleaned out. It will most likely have a bunch of crap and rust in it. I take mine to places that do this for big diesel trucks - they have a "magic steam wand" that can usually do a good job. If it isn't really clean, then all that crap goes into your fuel system - not good.
4) Pull the oil-pan and clean out all the sludge that is most likely in there. When these cars sit (especially if they had non-detergent oil in them), then a thick layer of solidified sludge forms on the bottom of the oil pan. If you don't pull the pan and clean all of this out, then when you attempt to start it the pump will try (and may succeed) in pulling all that crap through your bearings. It may not pump at all and then you ruin the engine for lack of oil. This is a MUST DO before you even turn the engine over with a starter.
5) Brakes: You'll surely need to go through the entire brake system -- new flexible hoses, maybe new lines, rebuild the master cylinder and rebuild the brake cylinders. Who knows what shape your brake shoes and drums are in - you won't know until you get into them.
6) Radiator: If you can find a local radiator shop that has a clue, have them boil out and pressure check the radiator.
7) Distributor: I'd pull it and have Charlie or Third Gen go through it. This is also a MUST in my mind as so many folks try to run these engines with faulty or incorrectly setup ignition systems.
8) Replace spark plug wires, plugs, belts and all hoses.

Okay - that should keep you busy over the Holidays! LOL

Best of luck!
B&S