Swaging brake drum studs
 

I only have a 20 ton press If I heat the studs cherry red will that work or does it have to be a stronger press?

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

You will horse up the heat treating of the studs if you heat them up as described. There was an article in the Restorer a few months back about doing this (they only heated the shoulder, not the entire stud) but I'm not sure the risk is worth the small cost of having someone with a larger press do the work.

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

I would suggest getting someone with a larger press to swedge them. You really don’t want anything to go wrong there. If you were closer to Richmond, I would have you bring them over to our club, we have a 30-ton press, and the gear to do the job. Check with clubs around you, they may have the gear to do the job for you.

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

I use a 20 ton air operated press and it does a great job without heating anything , I would not use heat to swedge or to remove the old studs, that is a recipe for disaster in my book. I use a press to remove the old studs, I made a receiver socket to place under the large end of the studs and they come out real easy. then I take the hub drum assy. and place a thick piece of plywood on the floor and drop the hub assy. on it to dislodge the hub from the drum, no damage from hammering etc.

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

it depends on how conservative the rating is, my press said 23 tons to make full a wedge, it’s a 40 ton press, at 20 tonight it didn’t have them tight

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

Rocket1. Be careful. You are on a path to maiming yourself or a bystander. And that is before you take the hub and drum out of the press. The press must strong enough not to flex while pressing the studs. You need a strong fixture to hold the assembly in line while pressing. Everything should be right. Kurt has the right idea with a press bigger than what you need. Pressing studs can be dangerous with out the proper tools and skills.

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

This is not a job to be done without the proper tooling. Aside from a large enough press, do you have a backing fixture that will allow even pressure on the head of the stud without risking bending the hub, the drum, or both? You don't want to "practice" on doing this on a new drum. This is an "all or nothing" situation wherein you want it to work properly with all five studs, starting with the first one and making your way carefully around to all five. Practice is the important word here. I'd even be a slight bit leery of a machine shop that says ..... "Sure, we can do that" ................ if they've never done it before. Not trying to "pooh-pooh" your good intentions. But, like the first time cutting a piece of wood, you want to "Measure twice, cut once ............. maybe even measure 3 times." Good luck. Let us know how you make out.

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

My buddy replaced a loose one of mine easily with the backing support you mentioned and the tool from Brattons.

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

A good Manley press with reserve strength makes it easy

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

I have the heavy version of that press.You have the side crank that picks the deck up with cables.Mine has a gearbox that runs two jackscrews to do the same thing.A lot of parts to do the same thing your cable winch does,just as easily.Mine has two jack levers,one if faster,the other one is slower and makes the high pressure.I've straightened 2 inch thick loader lift arms on it.I really like the wheel to bring the piston down to the work.For everyday press work it is much too slow,but on a job where you need the power there is nothing like it.

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

There will be lots of people close by that have a press to do your studs. Just ask your club members. The studs were designed with the proper treatment and may be altered with excess heat.

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

At the museum we have a swadging tool that was modified by grinding down slightly, two of the opposite faces on the tool, so that you press it down completely, then rotate it 90 degrees and do it again. Someone is making this for sale. I do not know the history of where we got the tool. It works with a 20 ton press.

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

Heating the studs would make them larger in diameter, super cool them would make them smaller in diameter. Warming the drum and cooling the studs would make it easier to press the studs in , you’ll need to be quick as the studs will warm up quickly. A stronger press is the way to go.

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

And sometimes you end up with this:

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

Now that will teach you some new language!!!

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

Carl, what caused that? Was it do to heat, or improper pressing?

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

improper pressing. And the drum was not PERFECTLY perpendicular (square) to the axis of the stud.

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

Ergo my suggestion that one needs proper tooling and a practice round or two with some donor drums that are no good anyway. This is not a good operation for beginners. Risk takers? Maybe.
Those who accept a dare no matter what the consequences??? Go for it!!!!!! Another job where patience is a virtue. Do your research, get all the ducks in a row, and enlist a helper who has a keen sense of trepidation for things that can go wrong. Good luck.

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

looks like no proper support from below,yikes!

Re: Swaging brake drum studs
 

That sounds interesting,you are doing half of the stud at a time i guess less pressure required.i will think about it before i grind the tool,thanks.