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King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder Looking for a reputable rebuilder for my 49-51 gas tank sending unit.
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Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder I don't think there is anyone who rebuilds those units as replacement parts are not available unless you have other units you can use for spare parts. I have taken mine apart a many times for readjustment and float replacement. You have to have the patience of a toothache. You might try fixing you unit yourself as the problem might be something as simple as a hairline crack in the brass float or corroded points. Here is a thread that will help you a great deal. The fuel gauge also works on the same principle as the sending unit.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...k+sending+unit Also, do a Fordbarn Search of "Gas Tank Sending Unit". |
Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder You might check with John Wolf & CO in OH or Williamson's in AS.They restore gauges so might do the senders or even have a replacement.
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Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder Thanks "deuce lover" for posting that info. about John Wolf & Co.
I was not aware of them. Their website looks like they could deliver very promising results. |
Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder Quote:
Contact Info > https://antiqueinstrument.com/contact.php |
Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder John Wolf & Co did a great job repairing the temp portion of the dualtemp in my '33, 5 yrs ago.Another source is Fred at Southside Obsolete in MN just might have a NOS.Worth a try.
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Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder Thanks for the info. I decided to remove the cover and clean the points and check for any obvious problems. What gauge and procedure is necessary to check the unit.
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Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder Quote:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...k+sending+unit Also, check this out. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259017 and https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...g-unit.796304/ and https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...eely&showall=1 |
Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder Quote:
I can verify that the KS sending units are- A) About a PITA to find NOS B) The only thing that I've used that operates the gauge correctly, because the aftermarket ones I've had on there made the gas gauge operate extremely erratically |
Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder Fred recently got out of the Hospital. A little over a week ago I emailed him about a hard to find oil pan part and he responded .Deal done 5 days later.Email is best .I used to call before but its a hit and miss plus where I live (in France) I don't expect a call being returned.
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Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder Will try Fred at Southside Obsolete. Thanks for the info.
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Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder Thanks, just sent an email to Fred
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Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder John Wolfe has done several for me. I have been very satisfied with his work.
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Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder Thanks for the info. I will keep them in mind. Southside on vacation but they might have one.
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Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder I sent Fred an email and he responded quickly. He is on vacation and will return early next week. The
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Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder I have a Drake unit in my 50 and it’s not even close. I was looking for an NOS unit last year, no luck
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Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder Quote:
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Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder The Bob Drake sender unit works on the variable resistance principle and does not match up with the King Seeley gauge. All other new replacement senders are the same and not recommended. They dont work well if at all with the KS gauges which require a chopping on and off signal from the sender. Regards, Kevin.
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Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder Dono50, 19fordy has said it right. The sender units have a set of points. Make sure they're ok. Perhaps spray them with some electronic contact cleaner. Maybe file them with a tiny file (Nail file) if you can disassemble the unit -which you can do, if you're VERY careful. And make sure your unit is earthed. The original unit probably relied on the two steel straps that hold the tank up for their earth. I ran an additional earth from the sender unit to the body.
You can make minute adjustments in the sender by tweaking the little toothed wheel like others have said. If all else fails and you buy a reostat type unit make sure it's a 75 to 10 ohm unit. Anything else is a waste of money. I've got to admit, I've never used a reostst (variable resistive) sender, but I keep seeing mention that the 75-10 ohm units apparently give reasonable accuracy - which surprises me I have to say ! I'm guessing that they might be reasonably accurate at either extremities (E & F) but I'll bet anywhere else on the gauge is not. Which probably isn't' a big deal. I disassembled mine and cleaned the points, but the gauge is misbehaving in as much as, it reads ok when the ignition is first switched on but then wanders back down to E. Sometimes it starts to come back to life and then wanders back down. The less fuel in the tank, the worst it gets. I know it's the sender, not the gauge. I'm theorizing that the contacts on the bimetal strip are still pitted. These things don't draw much current, so if the points go resistive at all, you'd see that reflected on the gauge I reckon. Then again, I might be talking piffle. I've got another sender unit on the way. I'll replace it and set the old one up on the bench with another gauge and play with it. I'm determined to get to the bottom of the thing. I'll not be beaten by a tired little bit of 80 year old technology !! GGGGRRR! And then, when I sort it out, I'll put it up here on the forum what I found. Good luck with yours. Let us know how you go mate. Mick (From the land of the REAL Tasmanian Devil!) |
Re: King Seely gas sending unit rebuilder By the way...
There's a little resistor in the sender unit. I think from memory I measured it at around 470 ohms or thereabouts (from memory). I'm thinking it's purpose in life is for "Contact Wetting" as they say in the electronics industry. That would have an effect to prevent sparks from when the contacts open & close. And little "sparkies" around fuel vapour aren't a good recipe I guess ! So even though the sender will still work without it, I'd be leaving the thing in! Anybody else got any theories on it's purpose? It's fifty something years since I learn't all those electronic theories, so I could be talking nonsense Cheers ! Mick |
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