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Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) My radiator was leaking on my 31 coupe so I purchased one from BrassWorks to replace it. While I had it all apart I figured I would replace the FSI Distributor and ignition as well. Changed it all out to modern points and Nu-Rex Automatic Spark Timing system.
I threw it all back together, timed it and started it up. It seeem to be running rough at first, but it did run. SHut it off and restarted it a few times as I tightened up all the loose ends. About the 4th time of starting it up all of a sudden nothing. You hit the starter and nothing happens. It’s as if all the electrical was shot. No horn, no lights nothing. I have no idea what happened. I am assuming it’s an electrical issue, but if it was why would the car have started prior and be able to idle minutes before? Anyone else have experience with something similiar? Why is the starter all of a sudden dead as if no power if going to the car. Thanks. |
Re: Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) Same exact thing just happened tome last week. Loose battery terminal. Tightened it up and all is well now.
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Re: Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) Use your multimeter to look for loose connections at the battery or elsewhere. You can also check the battery voltage. Connections at the battery should be bright shinny metal. Use an electrical grease to keep the connections from oxidizing or corroding.
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Re: Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) Ok -
Checked and cleaned batter connections. Getting plenty of voltage off the battery all the way to junction box. Checked Coil is ok giving off 1.6 OHMS. Any other suggestions? |
Re: Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) Sometimes a meter will show full voltage, but an amp draw like the starter will not work from a bad or weak connection. Check for a solid ground connection.
Edit: Leave meter hooked up to the battery while you engage the starter or headlights, look for voltage drop. If voltage doesn't drop, then must be open circuit. |
Re: Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) Check for voltage at starter terminal, do you have a disconnect between battery and starter? While your under the hood at starter side disconnect cable at battery and remove terminal at the starter and clean also check the fuse holder on the starter it you have one
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Re: Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) The battery is about as close to the starter as is possible. Either the current isn't getting to the starter or the battery has lost its capacity. They don't like to sit around long or they sulfate up. Load check the battery and make sure it's good. Check the starter switch and battery cables to see if they're good. Rotate the engine with the hand crank. If that's good then check the starter out.
If the ignition isn't retarding enough, it makes the engine hard to crank and can kick back and damage the Bendix or the armature shaft it's mounted to. |
Re: Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) This is kind of a long shot, but my son's Model A acted the same. We checked the battery cable and found the connection at the cable end had no connection. Also it could be a poor ground connection.
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Re: Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) Just a thought...if you have a fuse installed...I would check that first
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Re: Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) Good Evening...Check carefully the little fuse holder at the starter. The old ones can get loose and not conduct. I had one that was loose and the car would not run. The fuse checked good. Removed the fuse and holder and the car started right up. Another time, checked the fuse...looked good...the short was inside the little silver end...sure fooled me. Ernie in Arizona
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Re: Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) The problem can't be the fuse. Power to the starter does not go through it - it is direct from the battery. That leaves only battery connections as the issue or a cable broken under the insulation (unlikely) or completely dead battery (also unlikely).
If the OP has one of those isolating switches that goes on the battery terminal - the ones with a little green wheel that you turn to make the connection, then throw it away. They are JUNK! That will at least remove that from consideration. |
Re: Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) Some people add a ground strap from the bolt on the bell housing to the frame.
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Re: Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) Continue with your multimeter to analyze the problem. The electricity goes though a complete circular path. Check every junction along the path.
Take the battery to an automotive parts store where they can do a load test on it. |
Re: Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) Is there power at the starter stud ? If there is then try to roll the car back and forth. Does the car roll easily ?
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Re: Assuming Electrical (No power to Starter or Car) To expand on what Patrick is saying, check to see if the starter is not jammed. If you have the hand crank, you can use that, but if not, put the car in high and see if the engine turns over when you push the car forward or reverse.
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