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Cam Timing Gear 1 Attachment(s)
So I jus replaced my first cam gear and thought I had the marks c. It fired up and ran but but was shooting flames out the exhaust. lol This one has a newer style distributor cap so I couldn't see the rotor. I had set the timing pin and set my distributor timing using a light. I knew the rotor was pointing in the general area of #1 but couldn't see it with the cap on. I finally found an old distributor cap and this is what I see setting on TDC with the rotor on. I am assuming I am a tooth off on the cam timing gear. What do you think? Thanks
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Re: Cam Timing Gear Looking at the rotor you can not determine if the cam is off. The rotor can be adjusted to any position you wish. I suggest you recheck your ignition timing before going any farther.
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Re: Cam Timing Gear 1 Attachment(s)
Ok, I pulled the front and timing cover back off. Looks like I got it right the first time. This is a pic of the cam gear meshing with the crank gear.
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Re: Cam Timing Gear The picture shows the cam gear in the correct position. I would suspect ignition timing is too retarded. Remove rotor arm and slacken the screw under it, then rotate cam anticlockwise [in your case possibly from "11 o'clock" to "10 o'clock" ] to advance the ignition, retighten screw and replace rotor arm. I find that doing it a smidgin then roadtesting is easy and certainly fun. Optimal ignition timing will vary with engine speed, temperature, load, fuel, etc etc
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Re: Cam Timing Gear looks like a lot of backlash and the crankshaft gear teeth look rusty—- such damage to crankshaft gear will eat fiber timing gear quickly
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JayJay |
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Re: Cam Timing Gear And that is where his problem lies. Setting point cam/rotor at points closing instead of opening. With rotor blade directed towards #1 terminal.
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Re: Cam Timing Gear Rotate the crank shaft until the pin drops into the detent. Fully retard the ignition lever. Move the distributor shaft clockwise. The points should be closed. Now move the distributor shaft counter clockwise and the points should slightly open. You can see this with your eyes and don't need a light or ohm meter. If you have very poor eyes use a magnifying glass. There is enough slop in the distributor drive that the slight rotation counter clockwise will just open the points. You can rotate the distributor shaft back and forth to check for the slight opening. If you have a lot of slop in your distributor drive, just rotate the distributor shaft a small amount and the points should open. If this is not happening, adjust the cam and check again.
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Re: Cam Timing Gear 1 Attachment(s)
With your point gap set at .020", your rotor should be close to this position when properly timed, lever fully retarded.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...1&d=1684967737 |
Re: Cam Timing Gear Thanks for all the input folks. Maybe I should clarify how I set the timing. I set it with a test light so this is how I did it.
1. Set the timing pin in the detent on the timing gear while monitoring #1 piston for TDC. 2. Turn cam in counter clockwise direction until the breaker points are fully open (light comes on) this is where the rotor is pointing generally toward #1 on dist cap. 3. Turn the cam back in a clockwise direction until the points just close (light goes off). 4. Tighten the cam locking screw making sure I didn't move the cam using the cam tool. 5. Pull down on spark advance lever. The test lamp should come on (points open) at about notch 2. Sorry for any confusion. |
Re: Cam Timing Gear Quote:
My friend has 3 of these in various stages of disrepair. This motor is toast. While working on it I discovered several things that made me just give up. 1 is I found leaks around the number one cylinder where someone had used JB weld to try and stop water leaks on the #1 water jacket. 2 when I am trying to set the timing pin in the notch I hear what sounds like a piston/ring noise clank while rotating the crank by hand. 3 I had put fresh anti freeze in the motor(new radiator) when I put a new timing gear on. When I drained it to go back to double check I had aligned the gears correctly it had oil in the anti freeze. 4 what little time it actually ran it was dumping oil out of the rear main. I talked to my friend and told him my recommendation was to either by a decent running engine or see if he can find a rebuilt engine and replace this one. It is a cute little homemade hotrod. I will get a pic and post it here later. lol I appreciate all the inputs here. |
Re: Cam Timing Gear Purple, If things are changing after you set the timing then there is something wrong internally. You are right to consider a different engine or an overhaul. I am a curious fellow and I would take it apart just to see what is wrong inside.
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Re: Cam Timing Gear Distributor cam lock screw bottoming out before it's tight??? Does your screw have a washer and lock washer???
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Re: Cam Timing Gear Rob has a good idea. I'll second that.
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I may get a chance to looking inside this engine as the owner and I talked last night and I told him to either find another engine or let put a late model Ford 4 cylinder in it. lol Picture to follow. |
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Re: Cam Timing Gear 2 Attachment(s)
Ok, here is Model A in question. I think it is a cute little parade cart. lol The owner has another Model A I have worked on. The engine in it is decent. I suggested swapping engines between the two. The other one has a hodge podge of frame hacks done to it. Either that or drop a late model Ford 4 cylinder in it.
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