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dfoster 03-15-2023 01:49 PM

1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

I've recently purchased a 1939 Ford Deluxe Convertible. In the process of taking the convertible frame off to restore. I've noticed that all the joints seem seized up for the frame operate freely. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to improve this? I have removed everything and all pieces have been carefully media blasted. Any advice would be appreciated. Also interested in spare parts or a spare frame if anyone has something laying around in good condition willing to sale.

swoopNZ 03-15-2023 07:13 PM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

Sandblast it and check it out for rust before painting.

47topless 03-15-2023 07:29 PM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

Is your car a convertible coupe or convertible sedan? (Rumble seat or no?)

Veeder 03-15-2023 07:59 PM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

Right or wrong (but it worked for me) I spent countless hours with a can of Wd40 and a beer :-)… and slowly moved each joint back and fourth until everything was moving smoothly. Very time consuming but it worked.

swoopNZ 03-16-2023 01:41 AM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

I have a few spares for a 39 deluxe convertible.
Shipping from New Zealand is not too high.
SwoopNZ.

Mart 03-16-2023 05:02 AM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

I just realised we're talking about the top frame, not the chassis. Just mentioning it in case anyone else was thinking the same.

rotorwrench 03-16-2023 10:43 AM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

Any corrosion growth at all will cause tightness at movable joints. If penetrant and working doesn't loosen it up then disassembly may be required. If it's riveted together then it complicates things a lot.

deuce_roadster 03-16-2023 10:49 AM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

If you have to take it apart, take LOTS of detailed pictures before you begin. Include which fasteners go where. I recently went through this with a Brand X convertible.

blucar 03-16-2023 11:55 AM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

2 Attachment(s)
Many of the joint fasteners on convertible tops are riveted. I would be very slow to remove the rivets because it is very difficult to replace the rivets.
A good penetrating oil like BLASTER will loosen the joints, a second option is to use a combination of heat from an electric heat gun with a good penetrating oil.
I have been involved with the restoration of three pre 40 convertibles all of which were Briggs bodies. Many of the top fasteners have chrome plated heads which are unobtainable. I had to have new bolts made for the connections with bolts. Many of the bolts are shoulder bolts that have to go through two layers of steel, therefore the shoulders have to be smooth, no threads on the shoulders.
I had bolts made out of stainless steel, which I polished, thereby simulating chrome on the exposed side. I had nuts made that simulated a rivet head with a countersunk hex hole for tightening on the concealed side.

petehoovie 03-16-2023 12:04 PM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by blucar (Post 2211509)
Many of the joint fasteners on convertible tops are riveted. I would be very slow to remove the rivets because it is very difficult to replace the rivets.
A good penetrating oil like BLASTER will loosen the joints, a second option is to use a combination of heat from an electric heat gun with a good penetrating oil.
I have been involved with the restoration of three pre 40 convertibles all of which were Briggs bodies. Many of the top fasteners have chrome plated heads which are unobtainable. I had to have new bolts made for the connections with bolts. Many of the bolts are shoulder bolts that have to go through two layers of steel, therefore the shoulders have to be smooth, no threads on the shoulders.
I had bolts made out of stainless steel, which I polished, thereby simulating chrome on the exposed side. I had nuts made that simulated a rivet head with a countersunk hex hole for tightening on the concealed side.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...9&d=1678985479

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...0&d=1678985638

blucar 03-17-2023 11:23 AM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

2 Attachment(s)
If you review the pix I attached to my earlier thread you will note that the header wood header panel and rear main bow is made out of laminated wood.
The original front header on my 39 conv was made out of laminated 3/4" oak. shaped to size.
I bought a new header from a company that claimed their headers were duplicates of the originals. The new panels were made from one piece of wood which did not match the contour of the windshield, and would not sit straight on the windshield frame, missing by over 1/4".
The man I bought the header panel from claimed he had been making convertible bows and header panels for years, and that he had never had a complaint. In other words, my problem was T.S.
I canceled the transaction on my M. Card and sent the header back to the vendor.
When I need convertible top bows I have them made by a 'Boatwright', he will laminate them out of oak creating the initial shape on a 'jig' during the laminating process. Eliminates the hazel of trying to steam bend things.
Does your header panel have a metal tray built into the bottom side for weather stripping to fit into? The original front header I had, had a metal tray, therefore I have followed that pattern on the three convertibles I have rebuilt.

dfoster 03-17-2023 01:40 PM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by 47topless (Post 2211377)
is your car a convertible coupe or convertible sedan? (rumble seat or no?)

convertible coupe

dfoster 03-17-2023 02:20 PM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by blucar (Post 2211509)
Many of the joint fasteners on convertible tops are riveted. I would be very slow to remove the rivets because it is very difficult to replace the rivets.
A good penetrating oil like BLASTER will loosen the joints, a second option is to use a combination of heat from an electric heat gun with a good penetrating oil.
I have been involved with the restoration of three pre 40 convertibles all of which were Briggs bodies. Many of the top fasteners have chrome plated heads which are unobtainable. I had to have new bolts made for the connections with bolts. Many of the bolts are shoulder bolts that have to go through two layers of steel, therefore the shoulders have to be smooth, no threads on the shoulders.
I had bolts made out of stainless steel, which I polished, thereby simulating chrome on the exposed side. I had nuts made that simulated a rivet head with a countersunk hex hole for tightening on the concealed side.

Thank you for the reply. I'll take your advice and purchase the blaster treatment.
The frame has been disassembled as far down as I can take it. I had to use heat to actually remove all the hardware from the metal shaped bow. Once I did that, it came apart easily. I plan to get it refinished once I have the joints moving freely.

aandkt 03-18-2023 03:47 PM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

WHEN i GOT MY 36 CABRIOLET THE TOP IRONS WERE AS IF WELDED IN A HEAP.
I USED GIBS PENETRATING SPRAY. IT TOOK A WHILE BUT EVERYTHING IS LOOSE AND WORKD FREELY.

svm99 03-18-2023 07:09 PM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mart (Post 2211426)
I just realised we're talking about the top frame, not the chassis. Just mentioning it in case anyone else was thinking the same.

Yep, took me a bit also to realize the same

blucar 03-19-2023 01:01 PM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

I have to admit that when I first read the tread 'Convertible Frame' I could not figure out why someone would want the connections/joints to be flexible. After re-reading the thread it dawned on me that the man was talking about the convertible 'Top' assembly, not the chassis frame.
Of course most people should know that the chassis/frame for early cars, pre-41 are the same, open, closed and pickups are basically the same.

paul2748 03-19-2023 02:05 PM

Re: 1939 Ford Convertible frame
 

Gibbs, Kroil and PB Blaster are among some of he best penetrants to loosen things up.


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