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Radiator ID Did Ford put a visible part number on radiators? I have an old radiator that has been around for as long as I can remember and I'd like to ID it. It is in rough shape to my eye and I don't have the Green book in my possession right now to source a part number and unless I can find a number somewhere on the radiator I don't know how to tell what it is. I can get a picture come daylight but don't have one at the moment.
Thanks, Tom |
Re: Radiator ID Tom, look on the inside upper tank. It’ll be a code that corresponds with the model & year. I can’t say always, but it’s true for the years I’m familiar with.
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Re: Radiator ID Quote:
I'll have a look. I don't like being a pest to figure out what Dad stashed over the years but as Sgt. Schultz says, "I know nothing". Dad never tossed anything even if it was junk. Probably will post some pics if I can't figure it out. I just don't want to round file junk that either I don't know what it is or perhaps could be put back into service. Tom |
Re: Radiator ID Your Dad was a wise man, and you learned from him. Many sad looking Ford parts that are well worth saving wind up crushed and melted for the metal. Radiator cores are no longer made in the old configurations, so you may very well have a winner there.
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Re: Radiator ID Quote:
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Re: Radiator ID 2 Attachment(s)
At least in the mid-1930's Ford did put some identification markings on at least some of the radiators produced. I've inspected many radiators for 1935-1936 trucks and while most have no markings, some do. I have a Ford engineering drawing which specifies the marking requirements and also have at least two examples of radiators with identifiable markings. I don't know how many radiators got ID markings for all of 1932-53, but some did. Here are two examples of a 1935 big truck radiator. One is embossed "51 D" (Model 51, Dearborn) on the upper right-hand back side of the top tank and the other has a soldered tag with "51A L" (Model 51 (PN 51-8005-A) by Long Company). The codes for the bottom letter under the line indicate where the radiator was produced: D - Dearborn (Ford), G - Green Island (NY) (Ford), L - Long Company, Mo - Modine, Mc - McCord.
This information might not help your exact situation, but I figured it might help somehow or at least give you something to go on for the future. |
Re: Radiator ID 4 Attachment(s)
It took an extra day to get some photos due to our seasonal rain and wind storms but I was able to get out to the garage to get these pics. I looked and could not find any numbers. It looks very similar from what I can see to the radiator in my avatar '32 but can't tell for sure. At some point someone has obviously tried to solder it up. All I really know is it's been around for as long as I can remember and I'm now retired. Anybody recognize what it could have come from?
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Re: Radiator ID Quote:
Charlie Stephens |
Re: Radiator ID I agree with Charlie Stephens; it's a '32 V8 radiator. Usually those have no identifying marking as to who manufactured it, unlike in later years, but the configuration of the items on the top tank plus the four attachment points on the sides for the radiator shell are the giveaways.
Bent fins are not a big deal as long as the tubes have not been broached. The fins can be easily straightened with a pair of needle-nose pliers, patience, and perseverance. |
Re: Radiator ID If that were in England and available, I'd be all over it.
I have straightened some fins by pushing a cable tie through from the opposite side. Gets the job started at least. Mart. |
Re: Radiator ID Thanks everyone for the replies and help identifying it. The fins are in much better shape than the one in my avatar '32. There is a beautiful indentation where the fan hit it at some point in its past and it will weep a bit. How would I go about testing this one for leaks and proper flow? I imagine start by pouring water in it with the lower hoses plugged but what about pressure and heat?
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Both tests, flow and pressure, are normally performed at a radiator shop after hot tanking. You would do well to caution them on the value and rarity of the radiator you entrust to them. Should it need rodding out, gentle handling required, and no paint to be applied after hot tanking. Even then, the job may be assigned to a part time pimple faced rookie, as often happens. Do your best to deal with the owner so the message is delivered with full understanding. |
Re: Radiator ID When I bought my’46, I wanted to confirm the integrity of the rad and heater core, so I took them out and had a local rad shop flush, pressure test and paint them. I was told that “there was a lot of stuff that came out, and they pressure tested okay”. The shop also used a fin rake to straighten some bent fins.
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Re: Radiator ID 1 Attachment(s)
You could try one of these from Napa and others like Amazon:
Fin Comb - Radiator & Condenser Core Tool NTE 781110 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com) Amazon.com: Premium Plastic Air Conditioner Fin Comb Condenser and Radiator Fin Straightener Cleaner Repair Tool Air Conditioning Brush Accessory : Home & Kitchen |
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