|
Pulling the transmission… The '39 transmission in my '37 pickup is coming out for a rebuild. The early style synchromesh has quit and it pops out of second gear. None of that is a concern since I have Mac Van Pelt's book and catalog and I enjoy doing this sort of work. BUT when I pulled the rear axle/torque tube back to make room to remove the transmission, I saw the speedometer gear looking at me at the front end of the bell on the end of the torque tube. When I spun a wheel, the driveshaft didn’t move until I pushed it back rearwards and it reconnected. Mu guess is the driveshaft pin fell out or was never put in. Another factor has been a clunk when I change from forward to reverse or vice versa. I was hoping it was the universal joint but now I think it’s the driveshaft at the differential. So, long story but what does this sound like? With the rear end loose I'll pull it all the way out, remove the torque tube and see what’s up. I hope I don’t have to get into the pumpkin but it is winter and the shop is warm. Thanks for any suggestions.
|
Re: Pulling the transmission… Quote:
Preliminarilly, I believe that is a good course of action to find out what's what! DD . |
Re: Pulling the transmission… A clunk indicates backlash or play. Reverse has an extra gear in play so that adds backlash. The rear axle can turn without rotation of the drive shaft through differential action. If you suspect problems, now would be the time to check the U-joint and pinion backlash.
|
Re: Pulling the transmission… My gut feeling is a lose pinion nut . This (could) account for the sheared pin in the shaft coupling and the clunk when changing rotation direction . Still your thoughts on taking the tube off will tell the story best. Post some photos when you do. Tim
|
Re: Pulling the transmission… 6 Attachment(s)
Update: I pulled the rear end out from under the '37 pickup this afternoon to figure out why I've heard a big clunk when moving from forward to reverse or vice versa. As you'll see from the pictures the driveshaft was disconnected and able to be pulled forward while the torque tube was connected. Once I got the torque tube separated from the differential it was easy to see that the forward coupling pin had sheared. It was pretty clear that this had been the condition for many years because when you look at the driveshaft and coupling splines, they are almost worn away. Compare that to the rear splines on the coupling where it attached to the input shaft at the pumpkin. Those splines are like new. When I fit a Mitchell in my '40 sedan two years ago, i saved the driveshaft and will install it in the torque tube for the truck. Sometimes you get lucky,
|
Re: Pulling the transmission… WOW ! I've never seen a coupler that worn out!
|
Re: Pulling the transmission… Glad you found the issue. Time to put that order in with Mac. Keep us posted. Chap
|
Re: Pulling the transmission… Quote:
|
Re: Pulling the transmission… The driveshaft and transmission are back in and survived a test run in today's warm (for NH) weather. No clunks, synchros work unless I try to speed shift and why would I do that? A successful venture that took about 6 weeks. Thanks for the help fellow 'barners.
|
Re: Pulling the transmission… Good news ! thanks for reporting back
|
Re: Pulling the transmission… Quote:
|
Re: Pulling the transmission… 6 weeks. Sounds like you work at about my speed. LOL
|
Re: Pulling the transmission… As I remember my wild and crazy youth, the synchro doesn’t even come into play during a speed shift, nor does the clutch. Just the timing of the shift with a momentary jiggle of the gas pedal. A shortened shift lever with a heavy brass shift knob is your friend here, but having a spare tranny ready to go is not a bad idea either.
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:51 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.