52 F1 tie rod end castle nut
 

Right side tie rod end the castle nut is lower than the cotter pin hole. Anyone else have this issue?

Re: 52 F1 tie rod end castle nut
 

I assume you mean there aren’t enough threads to fit the nut and get a cotter pin in. I have seen some variation in the length of the stud on tie rod ends. You probably have one that’s too short, and/or the steering arm boss is a bit too thick. Exchange it for another? Maybe you can compare a few to select the one with the longest stud.

Re: 52 F1 tie rod end castle nut
 

No there are to many threads. When tight the cotter pin is above the castle nut

Re: 52 F1 tie rod end castle nut
 

Are you sure you have the tie rod end with the correct taper? If you have the correct one then you can add washers to raise the nut or check around for a taller castle nut.

Re: 52 F1 tie rod end castle nut
 

That’s a little unusual on a stocker. I replaced mine on the ‘48 a couple years ago with Moog pieces. Generally a bit more “generous” in the taper dimension than McQuay Norris or TRW items.
It’s not unheard of to need to add a washer under a tie rod nut, but mostly on a spindle where someone doesn’t know how to taper-machine correctly……. Not a situation with stock stuff.

Re: 52 F1 tie rod end castle nut
 

Theses are Moog tie rod ends. The tapered hole in the spindle seems to be ok. I checked it with a set of calipers 5/8" all around the hole and the taper on the tie rod is 5/8".

Re: 52 F1 tie rod end castle nut
 

If there is no difference between the nuts on same brand rod ends then the tapered stub part may have been for a different assembly at manufacture. This would show a difference in the threaded stub length. It should be no problem to washer it up. If the nuts are different then a person had to go looking for nuts.

In aerospace hardware, there are long thread bolts and short thread bolts and they have different castellated nuts for each on cotter pin applications. Long thread nuts have a taller profile.