'28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

Is there a spec for the wood blocks which go between the body and frame? Dimensions, pics, etc?


I have a '28 Tudor which I'm slowly reassembling. I'm test fitting the body. For some reason I haven't yet identified, the wood blocks I took out don't fit snugly between the body and frame; some have as much as 1/4" slop. I suspect that whoever had it apart before me just slapped something in there without making it fit correctly. I'd like to make up new ones with the correct dimensions.


While I'm at it, is there a good source for the leather anti-chafe pads? I have some leftover leather from a previous project, but I bet there's a correct material for those too.


Any pointers appreciated.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

In my opinion you are going to be so much better off to just purchase one of the body block kits from any of the Model A distributors. No guessing, just purchase. The body block pads depend on what level of authenticity you are looking for. If you need body block pads they are also available from the suppliers. Authentic ones are layered almost like a conveyor belt and more difficult to come by. Hope that helps.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

The original type body pads were made of fabric reinforced rubber. You can buy sheets or rolls of it easily from places such as McMaster Carr.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

Cool, I'll take a look.


Re the blocks themselves, I certainly could order a pre-made kit. But what's the fun in having all these tools if I don't use them to make parts when I can? :) If anybody has the dimensions handy, that would be appreciated.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

I have the dimensions, ...but what fun is it to give those dimensions for free instead of letting that person find those dimensions on factory drawings and then paying for the factory prints? http://www.model-a-ford.com/LOL.gif

The advice given above about buying them is likely your best option. The vendors worked to find those dimensions, and then they set-up to manufacture them to supply those who are unable to take the time to research them on their own. I realize you have the necessary tools, and you likely have a tape measure too, -but there is more at stake here than just 'cutting some wood' to make blocks. Miss your measurements and the body is not properly supported on the frame. This causes door alignment issues and hood fitment issues. Rarely does a Restorer have all of the resources to handle all facets of the restoration. No shame in understanding that and purchasing items you cannot completely handle yourself.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

How thick are the body block pads? I'd be tempted to cut them from the sidewalls of an old tire ifn the thickness was correct or close enough.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

My research counters this. Many of the drawing I have list the specifications just as I attached on the attached PDF file below. Now to clear, some anti-squeak items do mention cloth reinforced rubber however have found many do not. I have never taken the time to read the Engineer's Information notes on this, and this would likely take a couple of hours. For example, the part number I have listed below is for a 1928/29 chassis, and there are well over a dozen revisions to just this one item from 11/27 thru 01/30. If you are restoring using the RG&JS as the directive, you will need to follow their direction on using cloth reinforced rubber. If you want to restore authentically, then you should follow what is shown on the engineer's factory drawings for the time-period you are restoring to.



There were different thicknesses, and in some areas there were multiple layers used for that location. As I recall, some were 3/16" thick and some were 1/4". That's pretty thick for an inner tube isn't it??



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Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

Interesting.


The pads on the blocks I removed are pretty cruddy looking. Per above, I thought they were leather. Some of them may be, they certainly shred apart like old dried/rotted leather. But at least one of them is fabric reinforced rubber. I was able to clean off enough of the edge to see the fabric.



. . . but what I've got is quite a bit thinner than that. Less than 1/8". Either because somebody put the wrong stuff on it, or because it's compressed over time.


My best guess is the former. I don't have the complete story on this car, but the claim was it was "restored" in the '60s. Whoever did that job clearly took a bunch of shortcuts, based on other things I've found while going through it. So I don't really trust that what's on there for things like anti-squeak, or even the wood blocks I have, are the right parts.


Thanks for the info.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

True, but I was thinkin' "the sidewalls of an old tire", not a tube.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

Epilogue: I dug around on this and a couple of other sites, and talked to a couple car buddies. I've assembled a set of drawings with dimensions for a '28 Tudor. If anybody would like copies, please PM me.


I ordered reinforced rubber (neoprene) from McMaster Carr. It looks like it will do the job.


On to test fitting!


Thanks to everyone who provided useful information.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

BALER BELTING . . . available at a big-box farm supply store near you in 3-ply 3/16"-thick, 4" or 7" wide for <$4.00 or <$7.00 per lineal foot. Apache, Inc. is the brand that Fleet Farm sells here in the Twin Cities area.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

The body block kits you can buy are pretty nice, they are well made and reasonably priced. At my age I put more value on my time. :)

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

Granted :)


I'm glad there's so much stuff available for the As. And I'm not above buying stuff when the tradeoff seems right. But my usual philosophy (with cars, tractors, airplanes, and maybe now boats) is to try to use what I've got, and when possible (and the tradeoff feels right) make parts the way they would have back in the day.


On my '28, I could have saved a bunch of time by simply throwing money at the body work. Instead I opted to do a bunch of work to save the existing fenders and other body parts which were all dinged up. I did buy running boards and splash panels, because the originals were too far gone, and I determined I don't have the equipment to make new ones. When I get it done, I'll have the satisfaction of knowing I kept as much of the original car as I could.


All part of the fun :)

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

I do my own trim work since I have a good walking foot sewing machine but stuff like the head liners, I purchase complete if they are available. Some things aren't worth the extra labor if some one else makes a good product for less than I can make it for. It's a judgement call for each person doing their own work.

Each location for a body block has a different shape and dimension. If your old ones are not good patterns then save yourself some time. If they are good patterns then go to work on them.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

I think it has been mentioned in this thread already, but the body block pads are also varying thickness for shimming the body. One sheet of one thickness might not be the fix all.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

Understood. I've never shimmed one of these things. Going to drag my buddy (who has) over, and read whatever info I can find. Thanks...

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

I have about determined that when a body needs to be shimmed, it is because something else is wrong. It generally is because the frame is bent, -or the body blocks are the incorrect thickness compared to original prints. Just remember, Ford's assembly line workers did not need to spend time on shimming the body so doors would fit.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

Brent brings up a good point. Make sure to check and repair any deflection or deviation from straight on the frame rails and cross members. A bent or twisted frame will drive a person nuts when they try to get good fits with all the body parts. Many of these old cars were rode hard and put away wet many times.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

Good point, thanks!


The frame certainly looks straight, but I'm sure my uncalibrated eyeballs aren't completely accurate. I'll take some measurements to make sure before I go any further.

Re: '28 Tudor: Wood blocks
 

Jrd-28. I have been looking for body block dimensions for my 28 tudor but with no luck! I can’t pm you for the details as I don’t have a high enough post count. Could you send them to me? Any help would be much appreciated
Cheers Andy