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torque tube clam shell nut clearance problem Working on a 1934 with the captive ( not split ) u-joint cover. What nut should I use on the 7/16-20 studs at the rear of the transmission? There is not sufficient room to clear my socket wrench.
Keith |
Re: torque tube clam shell nut clearance problem You need a 5/8 AF nut and a thin wall socket. On my project 32 I've taken some long 5/8 nuts and turned the ends down so they fit ok and there is more room for the socket. If you have a lathe you can get creative. But a standard 5/8 AF nut and a thin wall socket should be ok.
Mart. |
Re: torque tube clam shell nut clearance problem The same nuts are used on the rear axle to retain the backing plates.
Lawrie |
Re: torque tube clam shell nut clearance problem Get some elastic stop nuts and grind the locking portion off and you will have some 7/16" nuts that will take a 5/8" wrench or socket.
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Re: torque tube clam shell nut clearance problem I found that one of my special 3/8" ratchets that is hinged between the gear head and handle and a thin wall 5/8" socket works perfectly to remove or install those special nuts that do not have provisions for cotter pins like the two at the top of the UJ cover have. At least that's how my original '35's were put together and also shown in the EFV-8 Club's 1935-36 Ford Book.
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Re: torque tube clam shell nut clearance problem While all four studs have drilled shanks for cotter pins used with slotted hex nuts, access to the bottom two is restricted so 5/8" 7/16-20 hex nuts and shake proof lock washers were used for those two studs. The top two are easily accessible on a '34 and 5/8" slotted hex nuts and cotter pins were used originally. Michael Driskell (Third Gen Automotive) has both plain and slotted 5/8" 7/16-20 hex nuts in the correct S-2 (raven) finish.
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Re: torque tube clam shell nut clearance problem Thanks for the answers. I dug into my used nut drawer and found the 5/8" size nuts. I have a stash of NOS 11/16" nuts that I was trying to use but they did not work out.
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