1.6 intake and exhaus valve
 

Hi. Is it posible to grind seats to opend them up to fit 1.6 valves. Or do i need to change seats ?

Re: 1.6 intake and exhaus valve
 

Hi Stian, doing this for a living I would recommend changing all 16 seats regardless of your valve choice size?

Most times the effort to go from the 1.500" the 1.600" valves doesn't get you that much gain unless you do more work! We can do around 175 HP on the 1.500" valve platform with all the correct parts!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Having all 16 "fresh" seats makes for a much nicer valve job and a basic all-around better build!

Re: 1.6 intake and exhaus valve
 

There is no problem running 1.6" valves with the original seats. Their OD is large enough to handle the larger valves.

The main reason for changing out the seats is if they have had too many valve jobs done to them - resulting in them being "sunk" a lot. If the seats have not been over-worked, nothing wrong with regrinding them - setting them up for 1.6" valves. Take the block to a machine shop that is experienced in flatheads (this is key!), they should be able to look at the seats and give you a recommendation.

It is no big deal to change them, but does add cost - and it may not be necessary or result in any better result than doing a valve job on what you have - all depends on the shape of what is in the block today.

Re: 1.6 intake and exhaus valve
 

Thanks, the old seats have a lot of meet, but is little rugh , im planingt to grind it to 1.6 I already got the new valves, and valve seats change job cost about 1000 $ in Norway. I have tools for stone grinding, so I’m going to try it first. Maybe I’ll need new seats after anyway ��

Re: 1.6 intake and exhaus valve
 

I see no power gains in a street engine. The bigger valve would oly be benafical in a large displacement engine at higher revs.
Grampse

Re: 1.6 intake and exhaus valve
 

For the 60* cut, below the 45* seat, it is highly recommended, that you use a cutter and not a grinding stone, opening it up, to narrow the seat. The grinding stone will stick if you do it that way and will probably brake, before you get done. A spring, under the stone helps but it will still stick.