Coil Problem
 

Car won't start,28 open PU.Used Les Andrews troubleshooting chart Page 4-5
Batt 5.93v
term box d-side5.77v
p-side5.79v
coil(-)5.73v
(+)0.07v
This is new coil, so where do I go now?

Re: Coil Problem
 

You have a low battery. Will it even crank the engine. It should be up around 6.2-6.4 volts.

Re: Coil Problem
 

A low or weak six volt battery sometimes won't have enough power to operate the starter and ignition at the same time . If the timing is correct , I wouldn't hesitate to use the hand crank .Don't forget to fully retard the spark lever before attempting to hand crank the engine . I've had to use the crank a few times and it is pretty easy .

Re: Coil Problem
 

It is a good idea to get an acquaintance with your hand starter. I have started a lot of cars with a crank and I think they start better because the starter motor is not drawing any juice.

Re: Coil Problem
 

Hey! I'm back with new numbers. BATT 6.33v
Term box wing nuts d-side 6.24v
p-side 6.28v
coil(-)6.21v
(+)0.07v
How am I losing so much voltage across the coil? It is new!

Re: Coil Problem
 

Points are probably closed.


Bob

Re: Coil Problem
 

If you hand crank, make sure everything lines up properly because if it doesn't release properly on starting because of binding, that crank will spin around like a propeller!

Re: Coil Problem
 

Tell us that you have checked and can guarantee piston #1 timing is at tdc (top dead center) when the rotor is pointing to spark plug #1, and the point gap is .018"-.020", and the point surfaces are free of oxidation. Also, you know for sure fuel is going into the carburetor. Have you checked to see if you are getting a spark at the points or a plug sparking? If all the above has been verified then either the condenser is NG or something inside the distributor is grounding.

Re: Coil Problem
 

When the points are closed that side of the coil is grounded. Thus, nearly zero volts. In this case, the difference between zero and .07 is just due to the resistance of the wire and connections otherwise it would be absolute zero, but .07 is a great reading. No indication from your voltage readings that the coil is at all bad. If the points were open, your reading would go up to nearly what you have on the other terminal. You can actually check that by taking off the distributor cap and putting a business card or some other thing between the points to open them up. While you are in there, open and close the points with the end of a screwdriver to check for a small spark at the points, and also while doing that put the distributor end of the coil wire near a head bolt and check for a longer spark. You should get sparks in both places. If so, your coil is good. If you try to open and close the points with your fingers, that spark will also give you a bit of a sting-shock. That's why you should use the end of a screwdriver.

Re: Coil Problem
 

Solved it!
I sent the gen to have it rebuilt.While it was gone I redid the gas gauge.The cork had fallen off. When I put the IP back on, I somehow got the switch against the dash which shorted the red wire that goes to the(+)side of the coil.Thanks for all the help
DENY 411

Re: Coil Problem
 

I put a layer of electrical tape behind the dash on the fuel tank to prevent just what you are talking about, had it happen to me once...once.