Drinking Problem
 

Old Henry has the drinking problem, not me. He uses about !/2 qt of oil in about 25 miles. Starts good, runs good, Plugs not fouling out, doesn't smoke and very little oil leak. When I park it in my garage there will be a couple of very small spots of oil where it leaks. From the trans back to the rear end the underbody is clean and no oil. When I put my finger in the radiator, I can get a little oily substance but it feels more like grease to me. In my experience with cars, if it was burning it, it would be smoking. Where is the oil going?

Re: Drinking Problem
 

After it is down 1/2 qt. does it continue to lose oil?

Re: Drinking Problem
 

Yep it sure will. I have seen it down to the add mark. One qt low. About 50 miles. I put oil in before it gets that low.

Re: Drinking Problem
 

What weight oil are you using?

You might want to try four quarts of 20w-50 oil with one blue bottle of STP as the last half quart.

You should get at least 250 miles to a half quart on a high mileage engine, but each one is different.

If still using oil after oil change. I would do a compression test.

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I have been using 40 weight oil. Time for an oil change. Will change to 20w-50 and see if that helps.

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Mine leaks when it's running but not in the garage. Try leaving it running in the driveway with cardboard under it.

Re: Drinking Problem
 

How old is the engine build? If recent it may just need time for the rings to wear in a bit. If an old build then I might want to add some tranny fluid and acetone or maybe Marvels Mystery oil to each cylinder and let it sit a while, turning it over with the key off once in a while then put a good jolt in the gasoline tank, say six oz. to 10 gallons and run it for a while and see how that worked. Engine condition would determine my next move. I'm assuming you checked the compression before you started this thread, right?

Re: Drinking Problem
 

Thanks
I will try this.

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I don't know how old the build is on the motor. I haven't done a compression check. I am waiting for the adapter to come in. It runs too good for the compression to be very low. But with a motor, anything may be wrong. I have heard about putting tranny fluid to each cylinder, but this is the first time I have heard putting acetone with it.

Re: Drinking Problem
 

Mine ran absolutely great and the smoke was not bad at all but it did what yours is doing. Sounded good, plenty of pep but oil was gone. Opened it up and it was WORN out. New rings and valves/guides and I loose maybe a 1/2 qt in 1000 miles. Not a complete rebuild but I have an engine I'm getting ready to build as a replacement. This was just to get me by and I did all of it with engine in car.

Re: Drinking Problem
 

Remove the spark plugs and look at the tops of the pistons, turn the crank for the best view. Sure, head off would be better, but hold off for now. Do the compression test wet and dry. Most would have done so before posting. Small amounts of oil consumption by way of rings will leave a black crusty residue on the tops, the more oil that passes the rings, the wetter the (shiny) it is. When the oil gets out of control Believe it or not it will wash the top clean that's when plugs foul. Also don't rule out rear main when driving - look and measure crank end play.

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Thanks for the info. I am thinking the same about this motor. It is just like me. WORN out. If that is the case I will have a complete rebuild on it if it can be rebuilt.

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Thanks for the info. I would have checked the compression before I posted but I didn't have the adapter. I have one on the way. So I thought I would go ahead and post. Got a lot of good advice.

Re: Drinking Problem
 

In my opinion, the vast majority of engines can be rebuilt. It just depends on how much effort you are prepared to put into it.
When I was in the US a couple of months ago, I saw engines with nothing more wrong with them than a couple of stripped head studs being consigned to scrap. That was in an establishment that took great pride in providing top quality and they didn't want a block that was in any way less than perfect. The establishment shall remain nameless but I nearly cried when I saw blocks so much better than the one I used being discarded. There were plies of them stacked 4 or 5 high.
FWIW, The engine in my CCPU has 5 helicoiled head studs and has performed faultlessly for many miles.
Cracks are the most common reason for the demise of a Model A block, not a stripped thread which can be easily repaired.

Re: Drinking Problem
 

Don’t give up on the dog yet.

If it’s not knocking, smoking, or dripping, give the STP and detergent oil (20w-50) a chance. MMO in the cylinders (spark plug holes) before you change oil, let it sit for a couple of days. Frees up rings. Than change the oil.

MMO in gas also.

Cheap way to check it out.

Re: Drinking Problem
 

bunch of cans is all you'll ever need. Worn out is worn out. diagnosed is diagnosed. Thats what WE say. - - - not

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That establishment sound like they need a good whipping & be sent to a reeducation camp for a few years. If they don't like helicoils they could at least sell the blocks to people that do.
My engines have nearly all the studs repaired with helicoils or inserts, depending on level of prior damage.

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Re-install drain plug, that may help some.

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It has been months since I saw that and I still can't get it out of my head. I'd like a dollar for every engine runnning with a helicoil in it.

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Synchro909, Back in the late 60s early 70s I was a backroom machinist at a number of auto parts stores. When heli-coil jobs came in I did them for "free" because the kits cost about that much. Each time I did one I got another size kit the customer paid about $20. Now I HAVE MOST ALL OF THE KITS but they cost about 3x as much. I should mention that when you work at a parts house you don't pay retail either.