Open Drive Conversion Question
 

If I chose to convert to an open driveshaft trans in my 35 Ford and use some type of strut rod support like in the Drake book, am I still going to have issues such as bending of the rear wishbone, chatter on launch, etc?

Thanks,

Dennis

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

I am not an expert on this but these guys can help you.
http://www.hotrodworks.com/

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

It has been awhile since I asked this question but does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Thanks,
Dennis

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

If you use the 35/36 radius rods, you will have no problems. They are at least .120" wall thickness. Now, if you are using a very high HP engine, all bets are off. High being above 300 HP.
If above that number, then the support rod that Jim mentioned from HRW is advisable.

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

A person has to conclude that the nice big tube is going to be removed. The buggy spring rear axle arced in suspension movement up & down nicely and rolled well laterally too plus it had that tube to push against in motivating the car forward with the clamshells to hold it in reverse motion. This made for a farely decent supension.

The removal of the tube requires a structural replacment that is at least close to equal to the tube with radius rods in order to preserve acceptable suspension function. I've seen two many that just use the two radius rods and a lot of folks have split them farther apart and add binding into the normal roll symetry that frankly just sucks. It will work but it won't work even as well as the original did. The best set ups I've seen usually use those two heavy radius rods modified to hinge somewhere close to the tail of the transmission with an additional center rod or strut to aid in doing the pushing & pulling duty. It has to be offset to one side to clear the open driveshaft and usually attached higher than the pinion to help with torque loads plus being hinged very close to the two other radius rod hinge points at the front. This set up at least allows the suspension to work near like the original. If a person could tie all three of the support strut structures into one common ball pivot or big Heim type rod end at the front, it would work just like a torque tube and still have the intended flexability of the OEM system.

The other option is to convert it to twin leaf spring suspension like more modern open drive set ups but this requires a lot of work and modification to mount the springs and pad the rear axle for support. The car would be even farther from its original configuration but it would work OK.

Just My Own Thoughts Anyway
Kerby

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

Lot of things are done for looks,and bragging rights.
Chasic Engeering has a parelle spring kit and use a granada rear end its a bolt in .If you have a week frame there kit has good support.

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

If you are keeping the stock rear end, what transmission are you thinking about using?

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

I removed the buggy spring and went to coil overs and a pan-hard bar on my 41 pickup. I retained the torque tube. Removing the torque tube destabilizes the pinion angle if you don't compensate for the torquing force. That's why Ford went to parallel leaf springs when they went to an open drive line. You might consider a 4 link and maintaining the buggy spring. That should be OK.
Just my opinion. GOOD LUCK:rolleyes:

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

Anyone in the area that wants to come look at mine is welcome.
I have done several like it. It is simple and it works. My car (model A) has 450hp.
PM me for directions. I'm 40 miles from Tacoma.

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

I plan on using an early 50's Flathead and 3sp OD trans shifting it with a 40 column. I have the early 50's rear axle and springs also. My plan was to build a car that someone might have built in the early 50's with the latest stuff available at the time.

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

Should work fine. Lotsa good parts. You might have to rearrange some stuff but no big deal.

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

I think the 50 rear axle is too narrow for my 35 though.

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

The 50 rear end is approximately the same width as the 8 inch Maverick( 57 inches flange to flange where the wheels bolt on). It will work in the 35 but you have to offset the wheels to the outside. The best bet is the 67-70 Mustang rear.

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

I installed a 50 Ford rear end in my 40 Ford in the early 60s. Width was right on. The 35 uses the same frame as a 40. Only problem was with the 50 springs. They are equal length (front or rear to the axle) and stick out about 2 inches from the rear of the frame (if I remember). I used 1/4 inch angle iron to extend the frame and had to modify the bumper arms a little because they now went over the angle iron.

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

Thanks! I will check it out

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

Based upon your input the easiest and simplest conversion would be a parallel leaf suspension rear conversion. These are made by Chassis Engineering , Posies and a couple of other mfg's. They are neat and do the job converting to a later model style rear axle and can be done for less than $500.00 investment.

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

Thanks. Probably the best way to go overall.

Re: Open Drive Conversion Question
 

Hi Dennis

you may want to consider your parking brake and brake lines I fabricated my own on my 40 coupe....I like your idea of keeping your car period componets for the build I'm doing the same....