HEad gasket replacement
 

Ok, when you spray the copper gasket sealer on the new head gasket, do you wait for it to dry or put the gasket on wet?


Also, what are most using now for the water neck? Thin with some sealer or thick with matches?

Re: HEad gasket replacement
 

Allow the copper spray to get tacky. Just able to touch it gently without getting your finger wet.

Re: HEad gasket replacement
 

Re: HEad gasket replacement
 

What are you using for a head gasket? If it is copper,(or steel)let it tack up.also,on any metal gasket wash it off before you spray anything on.The oils from the manufacturing process will make the copper coat kind of gather up and cling to itself in little puddles instead of sticking to the gasket in a nice even coating.

Re: HEad gasket replacement
 

I grind the center portion of the water neck so it will be higher than the bolt holes and won't crack.

Re: HEad gasket replacement
 

I don't understand what you are saying Glenn. Can you post a picture?

Re: HEad gasket replacement
 

Glenn- Did you ever check the water outlet surface on the head to see if it was proud? Mine is together or I would check it now. I did check the decks of several blocks and on every one the middle of the deck was about .018" lower than the edges. Don't mean to hijack the thread but if your installing a head, check it for flatness. I think most if not all of the cast Iron on a Model A was machined green and it does settle.

Re: HEad gasket replacement
 

you should reed the gasket manufacture requirements. the gasket i put in my car said don't use anything put it on dry

Re: HEad gasket replacement
 

To try to prevent breaking the gooseneck, I have a piece of plate glass that I wraparound a piece of relative fine sandpaper (like 150 or 220 grit) and sand the head where the gooseneck fits and the bottom of the gooseneck. Plate glass is polished completely flat (I use to work in a glass shop). After sanding, the surfaces should be completely shinny and totally flat.
Rusty Nelson