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My "B" Block needs a bit of work. It's .125 over so sleeves will restore it's virginity. A crack between the valve seat and bore will be knitted. Deck the top. Then proceed with the inserts, Riley, ETC.
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Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Quote:
Do you already have a a Riley OHV head? David Serrano |
Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Chris,
Make sure the sleeves are stepped in the block to make sure they don't drop. And make sure to break the sharp edge on the bottom if the pistons skirts sweep past the edge. I sure hope you got a deal on the block, J |
Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Quote:
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Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Quote:
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Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. No harm meant . To save a bunch of money and troubles after the fact , I really believe that you would be better off to look for a better core that wouldn't require sleeving all four cylinders . Big bore is no problem. One hundred and twenty five thousants is already at the practical max . Just my thoughts Good luck whatever .
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Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Quote:
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Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Quote:
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Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Quote:
afterward, they will show up on Evil bay |
Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. "He'll die with them."
If this guy has 20 Model "B" blocks, he'll probably die of a CRACK overdose. Marshall |
Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. .125 and cracked? and youre going to fix it and run a 5k head?...well,your signature line is right.speed does cost money..in your case lots of money,lots and lots of money. Did that anchor come with a C crank?
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Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Dog:cool: here,
Remember, once CRACKED, always CRACKED & CRACKING:eek: Buster T.:cool: Iwarnedyou |
Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Again , good luck with your B block . Be sure to give plenty of piston to cylinder wall clearance and ring gap . Clearance will help it run cooler and faster !!! Hopefully it won't run too hot .
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Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Nothing wrong with a 4" bore, if they are round and straight I would use as-is. 4" is the first thing racers did, some went as far as 4.060" but this requires moving the center-line to give room between cylinders for the gasket. As Purdy says, give plenty of clearance.
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Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. My biggest concern would be heat transfer with a sleeved engine . Sleeves can't transfer heat as well as the original cylinder walls . The water jacket doesn't extend very far on the A & B engines and doesn't cool the full length of the cylinder nearly as well as later engines.
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Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. The only heat transfer issue created by sleeving is the friction of.your dollars leaving your wallet.
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Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Quote:
I'm having the crack pinned. Fortunately it is on an intake valve that won't be used with the Riley head. |
Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. [QUOTE=Railcarmover;1587102]
I have a NOS Eubanks crank. |
Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Quote:
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Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Quote:
spending for/ striving for,eh ! Otherwise, stay with stock bore A engine/block. All my engines, that I build have 4" bore, but starting out with the BEST B block that you can get is important ! Cracks can be and are repaired satisfactorily , but I'd rather not start there. 'Speed costs, how fast do you can to go'...is a truism learned one way or the other. Doesn't mean that we can't be smart with spending our $. I think that it is a disease/itch that can't be scratched :rolleyes: ! Sometimes PATIENCE is less costly. This I've learned and occasionally.. still do not listen to myself :(! HEY TOD...where the heck are you with the 5x5 new iron blocks :D !! BTW Chris...I've sent you a PM. |
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