Resurrection
 

The A's been sitting for about 15 years, maybe longer. Today I drained the fluids and put in new and threw in a fresh battery, just to see what would happen. There were signs of life!

I have a new set of plugs to put in, but before I work my way further up the ignition chain, I have a starter question.

Is she turning over fast enough to fire? Seems slow/sluggish to me, but then I remember that I know next to nothing about this car!

https://youtu.be/rjN5WgoRFuM

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Hey Paps31, that's cranking good. Keep in mind its a 6 volt system. It cranks slower then a 12 volt. Keep up the good work. Jeff

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Mine sat for years and the fuel system was gooed up, check the screen in the sediment bowl, the alcohol fuel combined with water to make it resemble leather. Is there fuel coming out of the carb?

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It's turning fast enough (remember you can start the car with the hand crank). Check for spark, and clean out the carb and fuel lines, make sure fuel is running through the line.

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One cylinder sounds weak on compression. Adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to the oil and to the gas might loosen up the rings and valves giving the engine a better cylinder compression all of the way around.

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I turned the gas on and opened the carb drain plug just to make sure fuel was flowing. Seems to be fine.

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About to put the new plugs in and add a little of the 'ol Mystery Oil. Fingers crossed.

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It seems I don't have spark.

I checked the gap on the breaker arm per the instruction book, and attempted to check the timing. Feeling for that little recess in the cam gear -- is it supposed to be obvious when it goes in? Cuz man, I questioned it every time.

Still nothing. A plastic handled screwdriver in the gap of the breaker arm gets a low voltage spark when the key is on, so it appears the coil is fine. But when I turn the engine over, either by starter or crank, there's no life in the distributor at all.

Thoughts?

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Could it be the cap? What's a good (safe) way to check for high voltage spark at the cap?

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I take the zapping Paps,its good for the constitution..

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Just to be sure it would not hurt to change distributor cap, body, and coil wire.

Years ago I had a car that had been sitting for over 35 years. Added MMO to each cylinder and new gas. New oil with STP, 20-50w HD. New plugs, distributor cap, body, and coil wire. Rebuilt carb, added in line fuel filter. New battery and cables. New hoses and fan belt. I knew engine was free by turning with crank.

Engine started on second starter hit. A lot of blue smoke for a few minutes than it just got better and better. Ran great with good compression, no valve noise, plenty of power for years. You just never know, but I believe that everything needs to be right. You need some luck to. Enjoy.

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While not necessary pulling all of the spark plugs out will make turning over the engine easier when searching for the dimple in the timing gear. Especially if yours is not deep and somewhat hard to locate.
If possible get a helper to turn the crank while you feel for the dimple. Instead of using the timing pin use a small(er) phillips screwdriver to feel for the dimple. If you can't quite get the engine to stop exactly on the dimple with the crank put the transmission into third gear and have your helper tug on one of the wheels to "fine tune" it to just the right spot.
You need to be sure you have it spot on before you go any farther in setting the timing.
Next make sure the the arm that extends out of the rear side of the distributor body fully travels to each side of the slot in the distributor body when the lever on the steering column is moved from one extreme to the other. If it does not travel fully to each side you need to adjust it so it does before going further.
Once you have this done make sure the point surfaces are clean and are not pitted.
Set your point gap and then set your timing. Be sure the spark advance lever is fully retarded. (up)

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Should that bolt be grounded someplace?

https://i.imgur.com/1pbMCeO.jpg


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That's not original. It looks likes somebody's quick attempt at adapting a non-standard condenser.

Ken

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You're LUCKY, most cars were stored away because they were BROKEN/WORN OUT BADLY!
Bill W.

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Get a point file and clean the points. They usually corrode when left sitting and this acts as insulation. Don't need to mess with the timing. It does not change just because the vehicle has been sitting. It seems people want to dink around with the timing first thing, when it's the last thing to check for a no-start. If the point gap is correct, the timing will be correct, unless the engine suddenly ate the timing gear. Which yours has not.

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If you have brakes, spark at the points and gas in the carb have some one give you a tow.

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I may be old fashion but I always check the valve chamber and the sump for any crud before I try to run the engine. I didn't do this once and the oil pick up for the oil pump was clogged. Needless to say The main bearings were the first to go. Always take it slow and be through, it's worth the extra time to avoid problems later on. Jack

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If you tow it, DON'T attach a rope around the middle of the axle - you'll bend it. Model As have very soft front axles. Attach at one or both of the spring perches.

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On finding the point of TDC, with the top cover of the distributor removed, watch the rotor as it turns with the timing in full retard. As it comes to #1 lug inside the dist. body that is where the dimple in the timing gear will be found. This way you'll know that your just within a few degrees. This is going to work if you have not yet loosened the screw at the top of the cam on the shaft in the distributor. Also, the condenser on the coil makes me think that there might not be a condenser inside of the distributor. Many threads on the condenser, distributor, correct wiring schematic, timing and troubleshooting. Learn to use the Advanced search function at the top of the page to gain an understanding of the do's and dont's of ignition - best approach.