Replacement Cylinder Head Problem
 

I had water in my oil. Suspected blown head gasket. Took off head with help from this forum (a three-week ordeal). Found head was cracked and warped, although the gasket was intact. Left all the studs in place. I decided to put on a replacement head I already had ready to go. It has "A 6050" embossed on it so I figure its a Ford produced post-1931 replacement head. I used a Bratton's modern silicone head gasket. Torqued it to 55 and found that most of the nuts still have a couple threads showing. Measured the head and found it's 1/16th " thicker than the head I removed. Haven't put in coolant or run it yet. I figure retorquing will compress the gasket some, and maybe I'm OK, but before I run it I thought I ask folks' opinions. My previous head is being repaired, and I could reinstall that one.

Re: Replacement Cylinder Head Problem
 

You could spot face the head at the studs 1/16 that are short, but that's a permanent fix.

Re: Replacement Cylinder Head Problem
 

As long as the head is perfectly flat, fill her up and go. You should have a few threads showing after torquing the head down. The new head may be thicker due to the fact the other head was killed down.


Mike

Re: Replacement Cylinder Head Problem
 

I think the original poster means the head nuts have a couple threads left, not a couple threads showing above the nuts on the stud. I would retorque a couple of times after letting it warm up and cool down. The nuts will probably go another thread or two. The best advice would be to use new studs and nuts.

Re: Replacement Cylinder Head Problem
 

Oops, sorry I did not catch that. The studs I have read here don't need to be screwed all the way down. Maybe screw down and then back offa thread or two?

Mike

Re: Replacement Cylinder Head Problem
 

Hi Survivor,

In my humble opinion, as a survivor, here is the first half of your Survival Kit:

1. How level and flat is your replacement head that you just installed; and the second half:

2. How flat was the top face of your block before you installed the replacement head?

Again as an experienced survivor, your chances of your dried survival food going to rot are very dependent on these two (2) survival factors.

Re: Replacement Cylinder Head Problem
 

I had a similar situation with a Winfield head. I bought a set of high tensile head studs, but only the one intended for the theft proof cable was long enough. All the others were a couple of threads too short. I enquired whether it was possible to purchase a set of the longer studs and as it was not possible, had another set machined up from scratch.
Interestingly, these fitted more accurately and the head slipped on effortlessly.
Rightly or wrongly I torqued the head to 65 ft/lbs and have had no problems after 18 months of sometimes testing driving

Re: Replacement Cylinder Head Problem
 

Thanks everyone for your advice. My main question is, do I dare run it as-is? (Further re-torquing will probably draw down the nuts a bit more.) Or, take the head back off and either (a) put my old head back on, once repaired and surfaced, or (b) remove the studs and replace them, something I don't really want to tackle right now. The replacement head I just put on is resurfaced and crack-free (but thicker). This is an original, unrestored '29 CCPU I only drive locally.

Re: Replacement Cylinder Head Problem
 

Some don't like the modern gasket but I have had good luck with it. Stopped small leaks and just follow directions.....

Re: Replacement Cylinder Head Problem
 

You can get longer studs from ARP if that is the problem.

Also, when installing the studs, make sure you don't screw them in too far. I have used a scale to make sure they are all at the same height off the block.

Re: Replacement Cylinder Head Problem
 

What is your exact concern? Looks---- nut will strip--- ??) I can't see why it would hurt to just continue torquing until it stays put. It takes 3-5 torquings to compress and hold. Follow the instructions :very important.

Re: Replacement Cylinder Head Problem
 

Hi survivor,

Per your comments in your Reply No.8:

1. "The replacement head I just put on is resurfaced and crack-free (but thicker)"; and,

2. "My main question is, do I dare run it as-is?"

Why not? What can you lose?

I installed a silicone gasket from Bratton's on my Model A engine with a re-installed "flat" high compression Police Head on a "flat" top of block surface.

Even though not recommended, I applied Permatex No. 2 on both sides of this head gasket and torqued it cold to 55 ft. lbs.

Drove it about 20 miles and the next day, with engine cold, tried re-torquing but when I got up to 55 ft. lbs., nut did not turn; hence did not re-torque.

No leaks in 10 years.

Re: Replacement Cylinder Head Problem
 

Thanks, everyone. I'll crank it up and see.

Re: Replacement Cylinder Head Problem
 

Hi Survivor,

In your statement from #8 above:

"This is an original, unrestored '29 CCPU I only drive locally."

Please let us know if your head & head gasket "survived".

In my humble opinion, life is full of mysterious challenges for all of us as "survivors".

And, if we never try things that have never been tried before .... we never lived our lives to the fullest.

If everything went well, we would all be happy to hear such wonderful news.