Crack block between #2/#3 #1 stud
 

Well now what? Have the old head off getting ready for installation of my new 5.5 head.

Found a crack At #1 Stud between cly 2&3 . Had no issues no water leaks, combustion leaks etc.

So do I ignore it and put new head on. ( I did notice the # 1 stud came out when I took the nut off so it was obviously not tight.

Always something!

Thanks

Re: Crack block between #2/#3 #1 stud
 

I found my block cracked in the same place about a month ago....right down the water jacket and it had even made its way up the exhaust side. Most likely a water freeze crack. Mine was seeping water into the valve galley. I took it to Schwalms Babbitted Barings in Lancaster PA to see if it is rebuildable and he just told me today that he could fix it and rebuild the engine. It may get worse as time goes....I would fix it, but that's me....

Re: Crack block between #2/#3 #1 stud
 

If you cannot locate someone to properly repair the block by pinning and welding the crack, might I recommend the following? Years ago a crack developed in a Model B engine block while I was on a cross country trip. Water was draining into a cylinder overnight, making starting in the morning difficult and resulting in a wad of water blowing out of the exhaust pipe. Pulling the head, I discovered the problem. Yup - it was a crack in the top of the block near the valves that led over into that cylinder, creating a natural leak path. Removing the engine, disassembling it and having it repaired at a machine shop during this vacation was not an option. Fortunately, a counter guy at a local auto parts place recommended adding the contents of Pioneer Ceramic Coat for cooling systems. I was to put the head back on, fill the radiator ONLY with water, run the engine around for a couple hours, and then drain the coolant, leaving the spark plugs and radiator cap off so that the air could get to the ceramic sealer. Allowing for the recommended 24 hour curing time - while I walked to local beer establishments (remember: I was on vacation!) - I put everything back together again and filled the radiator with water again. There was NO MORE LEAKING for the rest of the trip and for a couple years after that until I replaced the engine with a beefed-up Model B engine. What had happened was that ceramic sealer in the coolant had worked its way into the crack and hardened there when exposed to air for 24 hours. The crack and leak were fixed, or as fixed as a non-machine shop repair could manage.
Here is a link to this sealer: http://completeautosp.com/product/pi...-ceramic-coat/. Don't look for it at your local auto parts store. You'll probably have to send for it. But believe me, short of going through an expensive welding repair, this stuff really works well, far better than the granular crap available at the major national chain auto parts stores.
Marshall

Re: Crack block between #2/#3 #1 stud
 

I have used KW Block Seal and had very good results. Used it on a Honda engine. Ran the car for 3 years without a leak. John

Re: Crack block between #2/#3 #1 stud
 

By the way, I suspect the reason this stuff is not generally available at your local auto parts store is because of its relatively short shelf life. It tends to harden inside the bottle if not used in a month or so. I found this out the hard (and expensive!) way when I went to use a new bottle I had squirreled away a year after purchasing it. Even though the seal was still in place, the contents had turned hard as a rock. So, don't order a half dozen bottles at a time with the intention of saving and using them as needed over time. Order only what you will immediately use.
Marshall

Re: Crack block between #2/#3 #1 stud
 

Post a picture.

If the crack is between the stud hole and the adjacent water hole, it may not be a problem. This is not uncommon and there are lots of Model A engines running around with a crack in this place.

You may get lots of miles for many years without doing anything.

We can tell more with a picture.

My opinion,

Chris W.

Re: Crack block between #2/#3 #1 stud
 

We looked at it very close and it appears it had been welded and machines some time back. Since there was no problem before we decided to let it go. We had no issued removing or installing the HC Synder head. Thanks for your everyone.

Re: Crack block between #2/#3 #1 stud
 

Moroso Ceramic Seal is probably the same stuff used it in race motors for years always seem to have a problem with head studs leaking in SBC"s sealed them right up and removing the head the studs came with the nut when removed
Great Stuff

Tinkirk/Terry

Re: Crack block between #2/#3 #1 stud
 

There is a youtube video of block repair

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScgXyn0d9A0

stand back from the screen so you don't get sea sick tho on this first one!

There are a series of videos 101,102,103 etc.

Re: Crack block between #2/#3 #1 stud
 

Well the job is done... no leaks and performance is greatly improved!
I hope it will last for many years before I have to pull it out.

Thanks guys !

Re: Crack block between #2/#3 #1 stud
 

I've used something called water glass that you get at the drug store. It's got a technical name that I don't remember. Used it in dozers, truck and car engines. seems to turn to calcium when it contacts air. Never had any radiator problems. Ran it for 18 years in an old Cat grader and never drained the radiator in that may years. This stuff is not expensive and will keep almost indefinitely in the quart jar that it comes in.

Re: Crack block between #2/#3 #1 stud
 

Good to hear from you, back on the road, happy motoring :-)