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Sleeved cylinder question What's the normal procedure for worn out cylinders on an engine that was sleeved on all four, back to standard? They appear to be 1/8" sleeves.
Just go to 10 over, or replace the sleeves? |
Re: Sleeved cylinder question One of my motors has 4 sleeves 30 over. Great motor.
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Re: Sleeved cylinder question Would depend on the sleeves and how worn the cylinders were when they were installed. Yours appear to have been put in after boring .125 over. You have plenty of meat for 10 over.
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Re: Sleeved cylinder question The sleeves come ,usually in 2 wall thicknesses.The machinist frequently uses the one that the customer wants. A bigger bore for more displacement or back to std. for more future life and rebuilds. One important thing is; is there a ledge at the bottom for the sleeve to stop against and not bored clear through without support at the bottom.
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Re: Sleeved cylinder question You can bore the sleeve .010 over with no problem.
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Re: Sleeved cylinder question If you bore the block and you still have a void in the cylinder wall ( a wrist piston put a heavy grove in the cylinder wall ) can a sleeve still be installed. Will the void behind the sleeve hold heat and damage the piston?
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Re: Sleeved cylinder question Quote:
This is a common occurrence with bent connecting rods, the action of the bent rod acts like a ratchet every time the piston goes up, it wants to push that wrist pin a little farther into the bend. When you do this repair, I strongly suggest replacing the rods as well as pistons, no matter what size the sleeve is taken to. |
Re: Sleeved cylinder question When a piston pin gets into the cylinder wall, I would always recommend using the larger wall sleeve, OD. Thicker all around for more uniform heat distribution and maintaining roundness.
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Re: Sleeved cylinder question if they cut your sleeves out they have to leave a small amount at the bottom so the sleeve will not go down into the crank. This happens when you try to run the engine.
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