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Torque Tube Coupler Rivet questions 4 Attachment(s)
I would like to install the special oil tube seal that prevents banjo gear oil from running down inside the toque tube on a "raked" 40. It's the red "gizmo" below.
To install it, the lip of the seal has to ride at point "C" on the coupler. The instructions say to remove the coupler rivets and drive shaft to do this so as not to damage lip of seal. Rather than do that I would like to file down the head or heads of the rivets flush with the coupler so I can then easily slide the red seal over the rivets. Are the heads of the rivets countersunk so that I could file them flush and not compromise the holding power of the coupler? If needed, I could MIG weld a new head on the rivets. I think those rivets are swedged in place. One of my rivets sticks out about 3/32 in. and looks like it was not completely pounded down to form a head back in 1940. Thank you for your help. |
Re: Torque Tube Coupler Rivet questions It has been a long time since I had to deal with the rivets/keeper pins on the driveshaft collar, the pin came loose in my '36 on a long trip to Idaho from California. Took me a while to figure out what the ticking sound was coming from the rear end.
As I recall the pin is not countersunk into the collar, it is just penned over. Removal of the pin requires grinding the head off flush with the collar, then driving it out with a drift punch. Rather than going to all of the work to install the seal assembly, why not just run the oil in the differential a little low, ie. the length of the index finger, tip to first knuckle If you pull the plug to check the oil in the differential and oil runs out, the differential has to much oil in it. |
Re: Torque Tube Coupler Rivet questions Would it not be acceptable to use grade 8 carriage bolts to reattach?
Also, curious where you got the gizmo from? |
Re: Torque Tube Coupler Rivet questions I don't know if you can get a countersunk head rivet made of soft steel that is that large. The holes in the coupling would have to be countersunk and they wouldn't be even across the top since it is a curved surface.
I'd suggest a light counter bore on each side so that a pan head rivet would be a bit lower than the OD surface after driving a new rivet. You can get counter bores for individual sizes without breaking the bank. Use a regular drill to do the little bit of cutting on each side that would be necessary. As long as the seal doesn't overlap the rivet area it would be OK. The edges of the counter bore can be chamfered a bit to prevent damage to the seal when passing over. |
Re: Torque Tube Coupler Rivet questions Quote:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...#post-11583645 |
Re: Torque Tube Coupler Rivet questions The pins should come out easy and by the looks you only need to take one out, as said just carefully grind the heads off and punch out. This is the time you will sort out how bad your splines are and any movement.
tip; When peening over your new pins try not to go overboard , the more you hit them the weaker and thinner the head becomes and bits may break off. There was some talk of high grade bolts but they can and do break and will mess up your gears real quick [depending on which side of the seal it sits], might get in the way of the seal too? I have a fair rake on my pickup but have never had any problems at the end of the day I have some small ramps in the garage that levels it out overnight, does it help pfft who knows, but its easier to get under there ; o ) |
Re: Torque Tube Coupler Rivet questions A rivet fills the bore so much better than a bolt unless the bolt is set up for close tolerance and even then I think a rivet is still better.
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Re: Torque Tube Coupler Rivet questions Jim........Can't you just put a wrap of black electrical tape over that pin head, smear a smidge of oil on the tape and the seal, and carefully work the seal over and beyond the tape? Once ya arrive BEYOND the tape and the raised pin head with the seal, remove the tape, glue the torque tube and remaining parts back together under the car, and proceed to doin' some full-throttle donuts out in the street to see if you re-assembled everything correctly. DD
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