Degreasing
 

I have an engine and transmission hanging from a hoist. It must have Ben in dry dusty environment, caked hardened grease and dirt maybe bout 1/4 inch or more. So the ? Is what is the best way members have used to clean up this mess other than spend days of scraping and brushing with gas.??

Also if anyone has a scrapable 28 29 radiator I could use the passenger side mounting bracket (frame support). I assume they are all the same?? Vern

Re: Degreasing
 

Vern, my engine and transmission were like that also. It does take some effort to clean everything up. I scraped and wire brushed most of the crud off. I disassembled my engine then because I was getting it rebuild anyway. I then used cheap dollar store oven cleaner to remove the rest of the crud. It got pretty clean. Before paint, I used gas, then lacquer thinner as a last prep before paint.
If you don't want to or need to rebuild your engine, I think you could make it presentable with just scraping and brushing. Others will chime in soon to offer different opinions. It all depends on your wants and expectations. Pick something that works for you.

Re: Degreasing
 

stop using gas for one, kerosine is just as effective and not likely to explode if it finds a stray spark... what i do with caked on stuff is let it soak in kerosine and scrape away with a putty knife, usually i can work it off in big chunks (scrape behind it to "peel" it off) for the little bits a stiff brush and some acetone does wonders. Once its like 98% clean i take it to have sandblasted to get a nice 100% clean surface to paint on. (wipe with acetone to remove remaining oils/dust off before paint)

Re: Degreasing
 

If its going to be re Babbitted the tradition Hot tanking will work.
This process will damage the Babbitt tho.

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I had a bellhousing and trans that were going to be rebuilt that had about an inch packed, muddy grease. Sprayed PB Blaster for a while and took it to a carwash with the high pressure wand. Left the shift tower attached so no water got inside. When I was finished it was almost ready to paint but still needed to be rebuilt. That way we were working with a clean box.
Fearless

Re: Degreasing
 

The guy that does are hot tanking will if asked only lower the block in the tank to just below the babbitt. If you are going to do the whole block and a re-pore of babbitt, melt the old babbitt out first. The shops are not too happy about all that dissolved babbitt in their tanks. Oh, it helps keep them happy if you remove most of the caked on crud first. :)

Re: Degreasing
 

It'll only cost you $2 to do the complete cleanup. Use an old screwdriver and putty knife to remove the caked on junk, then spay some oven cleaner all over the block. Here's a thread with pictures showing the whole thing from the start of cleaning, to the final paint job.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...+hauler+engine

Re: Degreasing
 

This ^^^^^

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scraping the big stuff off ,then oven cleaner is the best way to clean up big parts, oven cleaner works best by soaking the parts with it and letting it dry, then was off with a high pressure washer

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X2 on the oven cleaner, you will still need a scraper but the oven cleaner cuts through the hard stuff.

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Hmm. Looks like the consensus is days of scraping and brushing. Exactly what you didn't want to hear. Maybe an industrial steam cleaning outfit, but get out your wallet.

Re: Degreasing
 

No, the oven cleaner does all the work. It's the same stuff we used in the hot tank where I worked in the 80's. The oven cleaner did curl up my new parts cleaning brush, but now it will make a good axle tube cleaning brush.

Guess I'll have to boost the star rating. Sure don't understand why someone would cut down a major part of restoration to a one star rating.:confused:

Re: Degreasing
 

yea majority of any restoration is dealing with rust and gunk. i got plenty of scrapers (look for a grout scraper - looks like a putty knife with a rounded point like a finger) i used it alot as the curvature of the finger fit very nice in the curves of the castings

i used a big plastic tub and 10 gallons of kerosine as a parts soaker/washer. worked great at freshish oils and greases, caked on hard stuff it softened enough to scrape pretty easily. stiff brush and another day of soaking and a quick brush after that it looked new.

Ive always wondered how well those home steam pressure cleaners really work...

my only advice with the oven cleaner is A it works great B DO NOT do it in a closed garage - i have no frickin idea how its supposed to clean an oven without fumagating the entire house but the fumes are potent and will make you gag/cough/hard to breathe/eyes water so have lots of airflow!

Re: Degreasing
 

Thanks everyone for your input. I will probably end up using a little of all. Although I like the id a of the oven cleaner. I can spray it and leave it do its thing while I am out of town.

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I use Gunk and a pressure washer with lots of scraping and brushing, finishing with gun wash (spray gun wash). Occasionally I will use a wire brush in an air drill but I do not like to spread the mess that far.

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For those who like Gunk engine degreaser, a less expensive alternative is diesel or kerosene in a pump up garden sprayer.

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On a few projects like this I have had , I put it on my trailer and went to the local self serve car wash , some even have a engine degreaser also , and the hot soapy water and pressure worked fine . Just make sure you seal of any openings and not hit them directly with the spray .

Re: Degreasing
 

If you use a car wash, don't forget to clean up after yourself! Spend a few extra quarters! I see the car washes in my area have signs forbidding the washing of engines and parts, no doubt because of greasy messes left behind.

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Yes, that is why I am asking for options, don't want to do that.