Stuck Removing Rear Backing Plates
 

I'm working on cleaning up my backing plates / replacing the shoes / drums on the rear of my car and have run into a bit of a snag.

I'm following along in Les Andrews' Mechanics Handbook Vol 1 (Pages 1-4/1-41 for those following along) and I feel there must be a couple steps missing.

I have removed the E brake band and grease baffle / 4 castle nuts that hold the backing plate on and I'm still not able to remove the backing E brake carrier and the main backing plate. I removed the brake rod clevis pins and I'm able to move the parts around but am not able to actually remove them from the axle housing.

The bottom two bolts came right out of the back of the backing plate, the top rearward one can be pushed out. The inward can be pushed 1/4 way but then hits the brake actuating arm. Is it as simple as moving the arm out of the way and pushing that last bolt out or am I missing something else?

Re: Stuck Removing Rear Backing Plates
 

I would give that a try, should come off without too much trouble.

Re: Stuck Removing Rear Backing Plates
 

I always remove the bolt that holds the radius rods at the trans.. it relieves the pressure on them and when reassembling put everything together leaving all the radius rod bolts loose before tightening.
Youll find things are much easier this way

Re: Stuck Removing Rear Backing Plates
 

Just had the same problem last month. Used a rubber mallet to tap out the bolts holding the radius rods to the backing plates. Then everything fell apart.

Re: Stuck Removing Rear Backing Plates
 

You can leave the backing plate bolts in the housing and still remove the backing plate . Remove the e brake lever and woodruff key and then you can remove the e brake carrier plate off the 4 studs. Then force the long service brake lever forward of the shoes if still installed and by forcing the cam lever forward it will stay there . You can then remove the backing late by pulling out from the rear end and then over the front studs pulling the lever through the hole if the read radius supports and axle housing. I know you probably looking at it thinking it can't go but it will easily. Will reinstall the same way.
No need to remove bolts from the axle hoising or torque tube up front.

Remove shoes on the bench if not previously done. Service /restore as required .
Larry Shepard

Re: Stuck Removing Rear Backing Plates
 

This is what I was thinking I needed to do, but hadn't heard it from anyone until you. I think I'll give that a try tomorrow after work.

Thanks
-Brian

Re: Stuck Removing Rear Backing Plates
 

I remove the one bolt at the trans,and the brake rattler , so i dont have to mess with the
e-brake lever, spring, etc. i do all that on the bench, then reassemble has a unit .. i feel its easier which takes an extra 5 minutes...JMO

Re: Stuck Removing Rear Backing Plates
 

Just to wrap up this thread. Wanted to thank everyone for their help in this thread, via PM, etc. I ended up following Mitch's advice and removed the radius rods. I struggled for a couple days trying to break free the cross bolt at the trans, but eventually grabbed my antique pneumatic impact gun after I finally gave up trying to use the electric Milwaukee version. The old one took the rusted nut right off.

A few key learnings for those who may find themselves in my shoes later on.

1) I ended up removing all the brake rods from the cross shaft and then removed the brake pedal to cross shaft link. This helped move the cross shaft out of the way and give easier access to the cross bolt at the trans. This wouldn't be necessary if the rusted bolt wasn't so darn stuck.

2) keep everything loose until you have all the bolts on both sides installed. It's way easier to get everything lined up that way.

3) I used some bailing wire to hold the radius rods in place while doing the initial bolt up. It would have been easier with a second set of hands to aim the fork side into the backing plate. Nothing a little touch up paint can't fix!

4) Never underestimate the amount of rust on threads of painted parts. I ended up replacing a lot of hardware during the project (all backing plate bolts, radius rod cross bolt, etc.) just to be safe.

Thanks again!

Re: Stuck Removing Rear Backing Plates
 

Glad you got it back together... Mitch.. I do it separately so I can check my shoe alignment with my gauge with the rear axle housing race before I mount the e-brake... if I have to do something to adjust it is much easier without the e-brake carrier and lever already in place. Just my process of assembly and test before I button it up. Have done lots of brake jobs over the years and just fine this is what works best for me. Don't mind learning shortcuts or better methods.

Here's one for you generator users... Ever need to get the fan belt off but don't want to mess with your generator bolt.... remove the front generator pulley bolt and using the same wrench between the generator and the pulley give it a slight nudge off and the pulley and belt come loose. Installing is easy back on.. just make sure the generator pulley bolt is good and snug back on.

Larry Shepard

Re: Stuck Removing Rear Backing Plates
 

Wood,
Thanks for posting the final wrap...next time dont use a 1/4 ratchet on the radius bolt / nut..:eek::D
It was good talking to ya on the phone and pm's
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