Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

Not really, it's just one of those strange coincidences when Murphy pays a visit and lays down the law.:eek:
Two days ago I changed the oil on my 28, and as soon as I started the engine I could tell it was only running on three cylinders. I drove it a few miles around the neighborhood and it never hit on all four. I shorted the plugs and found #3 had almost no spark. I've been running an original single notch distributor body that I bought years ago at a swap meet.

Today I installed another swap meet single notch body, and it's hitting on all four again. Every time the distributor body goes bad it seems to be #3 that gets knocked out of action. Just mighty strange that it went bad just when I changed oil.

Actually Sunday wasn't a good day for me. I drove to Maple Grove to pay my Studebaker club dues for the next five years, and as we were talking cars, I told him about my 1999 Olds and how GM has been known for fuel and brake lines rusting out quickly. Two minutes later I get in the car to leave and my brake pedal goes to the floor. Another brake line just rusted out.
Now, was that perfect timing or what? :eek:

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

The only thing I can think of is the #3 spark plug strap lays against the body, and the others a further away. After installing another body I put a small bend in the strap to hold it about 1/8" from the body edge.

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

I'm not trying to defend GM, or any other auto manufacturer, but I think there is a direct relationship between rusting brake lines and the use of salt brines for de-icing. With some cars it is brake lines, others are troubled with unibody sub-frames rusting and compromising their integrity, and it seems to be confined to vehicles in snow and cold regions.

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

Tom Wesenberg , post # 1:
". . . my brake pedal goes to the floor. Another brake line just rusted out."
_________________________________

Now you know why me and Henry Ford remain stubborn in our defense about the superiority of the MECHANICAL BREAK system !

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

I hope you didn't waste any money buying lottery tickets that day!

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

Just returned from Brake and Equipment, and the prices have taken a jump. Last year a brake line and quart of brake fluid cost me about $12.50, and today I had to pay $47.89 for a line and quart of fluid.

The line was 10 feet 10 1/2" long and made from copper/nickel, so it won't rust, and the cost was $20, but add in labor (2 minutes to press in 2 bubble flares for $15) and environmental fees (I did nothing to hurt the environment) 2 fittings, and taxes, and it makes me wish my Oldsmobile had brake rods like my Model A. At least with brakes rods I have dependable brakes.:)

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

Alas, brake rods rust, too. I have some examples that are too good to pitch (or to sell at a swap) but too pitted to ever put on a car that someone I like might drive. On the other hand, it is a comfort not having to "chain up."

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

I will say automakers, all of them have made a lot of progress in terms of brake lines... I recall them only lasting 5 years in the salty winters here in Cleveland.. My old 92' explorer never had a line or any brake issue in the 14 years I had it..

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

It wasn't my distributor body after all. It was just a coincidence that it hit on all 4 after changing the part, and Saturday after leaving the New Brighton Antique Car Run it was hitting on only 3 again, and it was #3 not firing once more. This morning I checked my points, and found I must have neglected to set them when I put the distributor together a few weeks ago.

Anyway, this morning I set the points and tightened the locking screw, which was also loose, and it's running like it should once again.

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

Environmental charges for buying copper/ nickel coating products? Hope we don't get charged for carrying copper in our pockets :-)

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

what type of line did you buy??? a 25 FOOT roll of brake line is $23 at Orileys...

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

I assume the line was made from solid copper nickel and not just coated. At any rate at least I have good brakes again, but will ask for a price before I buy there again.

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

That copper/nickel line is a pleasure to work with.It turns green on the outside in short order in the salt,but it never seems to get worse.I have a hydraulic flaring setup I use to make lines with.I don't do a lot of car work,but it seems like a lot of them have a plain old double flare on one end,and an odd metric bubble flare on the other.I bought the tool because it makes the upsets on fuel and transmission lines.I'm paying $1.per foot for 3/16 line,five years ago it was $2.per foot.I have rolls of steel line hanging in the garage that I will never use now.Two local parts stores won't even stock steel line now.

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

Keith I have this set ...is yours similar? It does a great job along with all the specialty flares..

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

No doubt lawyers and law suits are taking their 'cut':mad: reason for the 400% increase.

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

The guy told me I could buy the tool and do the flares myself. The tool clamps in the vice jaws and has a rotating head to make the different flares now in use. The tool cost $185.00 but since I'm no longer working as a full time mechanic, I hope I won't need more than a couple more bubble flares over the years.

I probably should have bought the tool just to guarantee that I won't need it again. :D

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

Mitch,that's the one I have.I need to buy the die and mandrel for a plain old 37 degree flare.Seems like I'm always doing a furnace fuel line,or a gas line for something.After using the Mastercool hydraulic setup you want to throw rocks at the old hand flare tools.Jeff,I'll bet the cheap line he bought a year ago was the regular steel line.With everybody going to the copper-nickel stuff the stores are not bothering to stock steel.A year ago 25 foot rolls of 3/16 steel were $16.Right now they are $10,and it is gathering dust.What does surprise me is that the parts store did the flaring for Tom.I know the parts stores here get asked to do it,but they are parts people not mechanics.Not really sure I would want the parts people doing my brake line ends anyway.Brake fluid I buy when it is on special.Seems like one of the chain store is always running a special,buy 10 quarts,$3.each.I got caught short and had to buy one quart,I think it was about $8.I make sure that I won't do that again.

Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap
 

We replaced a lot of GM SUV / P-UP fuel and brake lines with the prebent stainless steel kit.. A big job to say the least...