Oil Pan Gaasket
 

Based on suggestions from my last post, I am including as much detail as possible.
I have a 39 Deluxe Fordor. I am installing my pan (engine in car). I have installed the "rope" gasket at the front of the pan, making sure to push it all the way into its channel in the pan. The ends are proud of the pan surface (see pictures).
My question: should I trim the gasket end flush with the pan surface, or expect that they will compress upon installation?

Re: Oil Pan Gaasket
 

From my experience with Best Gaskets, they recommended that the gasket should be proud by about 1/16". The had included a simple piece of cardboard that was the correct thickness to use as a gauge. Then trim with a sharp razor blade. Whether you add some RTV to the ends is up to you and opinions differ on the installation.

Re: Oil Pan Gaasket
 

I just went through this and you'll get all kinds of opinions. I called Best gasket tech and he said they weren't supposed to be cut but if it is too long to cut it. They don't provide a template or directions on how much to leave proud. I measured the thickness of the pan gasket, left a little more than that thickness proud, cut the pan gasket with a hole punch, and siliconed around the junction point. It is hard to cut that seal square because it is so tough. The engine isn't running yet so I don't know if I'll have a leak.

Re: Oil Pan Gaasket
 

Did the guy from Best instruct to not overlap the side rail gasket with the rope gasket?

Re: Oil Pan Gaasket
 

Soak the seal in oil for at least a day, put it in place and roll it into place with a pipe or something similar. Trim off the top two ends of the seal so they are slightly proud of the oil pan. When you install the pan gasket with RTV make sure to get some RTV at the two front ends of the gasket next to the rope seal also a couple of small dabs at the rear of the gasket.

Re: Oil Pan Gaasket
 

No, an experienced builder here on the 'Barn suggested trimming the gasket back. The pan gasket checked at something like .120" so it made sense because of leaving the seal proud.

Re: Oil Pan Gaasket
 

What is meant by leaving the gasket proud?

Re: Oil Pan Gaasket
 

Extending above the surface of the block.

It is more commonly a British used term.

Definition: slightly projecting from a surface:
"when the brake is engaged, the lever does not stand proud of the horizontal"

Re: Oil Pan Gaasket
 

When you are "standing proud" you hold your head up higher than you normally would.
It is so that when the sump (pan) is bolted up (down) the four ends of the seal parts are under compression, which makes the seal close any gaps, thus forming a full and continuous circle of compressed rope seal.
The reason why you add the extra sealant at the corners it to make the rope seal join the pan gasket, which makes a continuous seal also in that direction.

You do not want to add so much that the sealant oozes to the crank shaft, only to joint the rope seal to the pan gasket. "How much" is a judgement thing. It only takes a very small amount.

Does that make sense?
Good on you for asking that which wasn't clear to you. It helps other people as well.

Re: Oil Pan Gaasket
 

Currently, the gasket set shipped from Best has the "rail" (or side gaskets) contacting the end of the rope seal. That is, the end of the rope seal will contact the side gasket, not the metal of the pan.
Should the side gasket material be trimmed so that the rope seal contacts the metal of the pan, or left as is?

Re: Oil Pan Gaasket
 

You do not want the pan gasket to extend over the top of the rope seal. There is another rope seal in the timing gear cover. The rope seal ends from the top timing gear cover and the oil pan contact each other. The gasket can touch the SIDE of the rope seal.