Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

First question:

I spun the two solid rods out of the hood side panels with my variable speed drill. Cannot remove the hollow center tube. Any good removal hints? (Pre-soaked with Liquid Wrench.)

Second question:

Do you finish paint the 4 hood sections separately, then assemble the two solid rods and the center tube, or as an assembled unit?

Thank you!

Larry

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

Larry,
I painted all sections separately, cleaned all inside hinge areas with a wire tube brush. I also made 3 new hinge rods out stainless steel. I also used a punch to get the rods started moving out. Good Luck

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

I too used a punch to move the two side panel solid rods out to the point whereby I could attach my cordless drill. Then, turning the drill spindle slowly, pulled out the rods.

Now, What exactly did you use to remove the hollow center tube?

Larry

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

I used a roll pin punch to get it moving, my set has different sizes one of the larger ones matched up good...
We painted the hood in 4 pieces also

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

Thanks Mitch..

I'm not sure what a "Roll Pin Punch" is, bit I think it might be a "step" punch that has two diameters. One, the inner diameter of the tube; and the outer diameter is the size of the outside diameter of the tube.

If that's what it is, Ill make one on my metal lathe.

Then, after the tube is moved out a little, what do you use/do to completely remove it?

You da man!

Larry

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

I got the center rod out with a cordless drill, after I loosened it up by moving it a little with a punch. I put the rods back in the finished hood sections with a drill,too. Since I'm mostly working alone, I assembled the painted top sections of the hood, mounted that on the car (it's not too heavy or hard to manage that way). Then , once the top of the hood was in place, with the radiator and shell all tightened up, I installed the sides, again using the drill to run the rods in. I found it was easy to do it like this,without messing up the new paint.

edit: Make sure the ends of the center rod aren't mushroomed out, which would make the rod very difficult to remove

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

44.. That's great advice.

After I make my step punch as described above, I will grind or file the outside diameter of the center rod end that sticks out about 5/8" to remove any mushrooming.

Larry

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

I take the hood off & put it on in PIECES, cuz I cain't LIFT the whole danged thing!!---The Dog jist WATCHES me, THANKS, FIDO!
Bill W.

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

Larry
Yes it has a little rounded knob on the end to fit inside the pin. Do a search if the pic is not good enough..

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

Those are really slick punches, Mitch, I'll check to see if there's some in Bros' (RIP) tool box. He spent a MINT on tools.
Roll pins were always a bitch to remove!
Dad W.

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

I replaced the hollow one with a solid rod that was intended to be driven in the ground as an electrical ground rod. This was 35 years ago or so but at that time it was an exact size match.

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

I made a bunch of center rods up in the mid-80's from some kind of plastic.I called them nylon,but the guy I got them from said it was a teflon composite.He said it was nothing special,the same material is used to make driveway marker/reflectors.I've used most of them up,I have been using a couple of them myself since about 1985.The problem I always found with the hollow tube was the ends were always worn through or completely away.We don't use those cars now like they were before,so I would bet even the hollow rod would last a lifetime now.

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

Here is a better shot of some of mine.. Notice the bulge on the end to fit in a roll pin..

http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/v...s4t1dwca1.jpeg

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

Mitch.. And others.. Thank you for the great ideas!

This morning, I turned a double diameter punch from 1020 material.

Drove the tube right out enough to where I can spin it out with my cordless drill. Now gotta find some small round wire brushes to clean out the tubes. Maybe HF?

Larry

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

Gun shops would have bore cleaning brushes for small cal. guns

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

Been retired since 1990 & REALLY miss my weekly visits to the tool trucks! They're always coming up with NEW tools.
I've found tools in Greggs' boxes that I don't even know what their use is???
I DARE to even think of how MUCH I spent over the years, in the tool trucks. When I look on Snap On Website, I'm ASTOUNDED at the PRICES! We had a FIT, when 3/8 drive, universal sockets went up from $2.95 to $3.95!!! Shortly before Gregg passed away, he spent $550.00 for a 1/2" Impact Gun, after a $90.00 trade in, for his old one!!! His Blue Snap On chest cost $4,595.00!
Back a few years, I'd spend an easy GRAND a year, for tools.
Bill W.

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

A reminder before painting if not already done is to dry fit the sections to check hinge barrel mating when opening /closing. Sometimes light edge filing is necessary to prevent scratching.

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

After painting, I use a small fine file to remove the excess paint from the ends of each hinge part, so the paint does not chip when the parts are placed together.

Re: Two questions about my 1930 Hood
 

.22 cal rifle cleaning brush. I used the cleaning patch to oil it before installing the new one