Frame welting installation
 

Past posts in the "Search" feature about frame welting installation is vague.

At least to me. Maybe I didn't look good enough..

How did you lay out and cut the holes; what adhesive did you use and how did you install the welting so everything lined up?

Brent and Marco talks about some ways, but I would like to hear yours.. ;)

Larry

Re: Frame welting installation
 

Here you go Larry...Maybe this will help you out!

http://www.plucks329s.org/pdf/studie...EAKARTICLE.pdf

Pluck

Re: Frame welting installation
 

Wow! 7 stars for research efforts!

Now, how to punch the holes? Tools? Methods?

Thanks Pluck..

Larry

Re: Frame welting installation
 

Lay the welting out on both frame rails and use tape or clothespins to hold to hold the ends. Let it set for a day or two to normalize, then mark and cut the holes. I pressed my thumb into the welting and frame holes, so it made a slight indentation, then marked the hole with a sharpy pen. I used a hole punch set and block of oak the punch the holes.

The first time I did the frame welt I just taped it and marked and punched the holes. A day or two later I found the welting needed to be pulled to make the holes line up. Seems it shrank a little after being unrolled.

Re: Frame welting installation
 

agree with Tom on laying and stretching it out ahead of time.. i use a punch set like this..
i dont glue mine down, never had an issue once the sheet metal gets bolted up it holds things in place

Re: Frame welting installation
 

After Punching, I like to use a red hot piece of round stock to melt the circumference of the holes to prevent any loose fibers from getting in the way while installing the mounting bolts and shims.

Re: Frame welting installation
 

Harbor Freight has a cheap set of punches that work well,too

Re: Frame welting installation
 

Great responses!

Thanks, Guys..

Larry

Re: Frame welting installation
 

I use 3M Weatherstripping adhesive to hold the welting in place, using a bunch of clothespins to hold it in place to dry-it doesn't take long, and holds the welting very well.

Re: Frame welting installation
 

lay the welting on the framemhold it in place using any one of the mentioned ways, then just run your hand down the welt till you can feel the hole in the frame, take a ball peen hammer using the rounded end and tap the welt till the hammer makes a hole in it where the frame hole is

Re: Frame welting installation
 

I use the 3M contact cement in the spray can. Lay the welting out, cut the length you need for both rails, lay down on newspapers and spray the contact cement on the welting. While the cement is drying a little, follow can directions, get some squeeze clamps ready to clamp the webbing on the frame rails, only need 4. Lift your welting up and take it to the frame rail and lay the sticky side down on the rail. Start from the back and go forward all the way to the front. The welting should go all the way to the end of the frame horn. If you have a roller of some kind or just a block of wood, use it to squash the wrinkles down so the welting is smooth. Put your squeeze clamp on the back end of the welting to hold in place, then go to the front and pull tight enough so that the welting is snug on the rail. Go back and squash the welting again just in case any wrinkles appeared. Do the other rail the same way. Let this set up a few days or longer, I usually let it sit this way for weeks until I am ready to set the body. Here is the fun part. Find a medium size ball peen hammer. On the frame rail, find the holes for the body bolts to go through, find one hole, press the ball of the hammer into the welting to make an indent. Do this for all the holes that a bolt will be going through, even the smaller holes on the frame rail. Go back with your ball peen hammer, hold the ball in the indent with one hand and hit the hammer with another heavy hammer once or twice and there you have your hole in the place it is suppose to be. I use a small ball peen hammer for the smaller holes which works the same. You can take the clamps off because once the contact cement is set, the welting is not going to move. One other thing, the welting at the front should be cut along the side where the taper is so that the radiator splash apron will fit better. I saw this on some original cars before. If you don't do this then when you look under the fender in the front you will see welting hanging down. Poor workmanship as they say in Fine Point!!!