rumble lid hinges
 

Is there anything visually or dimensionally different between original and repo rumble lid hinges? Is there any way to modify the repos to make them work? I bought a supposedly original hinge from Berts that looks and measures the same as my repos, and doesn't fit the screw holes. Where can I get a set that fits and works properly?

Re: rumble lid hinges
 

I will keep it simple.

If you have an original lid get original hinges.

Failure to follow my advice will result in a large amount of frustration.

The repro hinges are like a direct casting of an original. It is smaller in all directions and made out of a poor quality cast iron that will break easy.
The repro hinges will have a coarse surface texture on all the surfaces. The originals have a much smoother look and the countersink areas will be smooth too. The originals fit into the original lid like a glove. They fit just right and it feels that way. The repros move all over the place because they do not fit in any dimension.

I had an almost perfect 28-29 lid which I did not know the difference until I put it on my 31. I know the repro hinges clearly were not made to work on an original lid. I got a repro lid from brookville they are only made to work with repro hinges.

Re: rumble lid hinges
 

Watch out on ebay or here on fordbarn for some originals. It is a PITA enough with an original lid to fit original hinges.

Re: rumble lid hinges
 

Hey Glenn,

Remember I told you about Ron Rude in Quincy, CA? He has the set I removed from my 1929 Standard Coupe when I converted it back to a trunk. Vey nice set...Includes ALL the original hardware, brackets, square washers, nuts, bolts...why deal with those repros when you could of or still can, get the real deal!

Pluck

Re: rumble lid hinges
 

There are repro hinges and then there are repro hinges. There are also repro deck lids (and of course repro deck lids).

The best repro hinges are made by Snyders (they used to be made by a guy by the name of Anderson in Wisconsin), they are not perfect. These are usually shipped in bare cast iron.

The offshore repros are close to useless. There are several manufacturers and these are usually shipped painted black.

The repro steel deck lid inners tend to have a random bolt pattern (arrgh...) and the pads are not exactly correct in shape (arrgh... x2). Life will be a lot easier if you fit the hinges to the inner panel before the outer panel is installed.

The good fiberglass deck lids (lol) will have steel inserts under the hinge mounts and will need to be drilled and tapped 12-24 for hinges.

So here is a procedure to make everything work. (unless you have a good original lid and good original hinges... follow Kevin's advice).

If your deck lid is fiberglass and other than the "good one" toss it (lol x 2)

If your deck lid is steel and has mount holes you will need to lose the nut inserts.

With repro hinges you will need to face the bottom of the hole and provide wrench clearance for the hinge bolt. This can be done with a spot facing tool or on a mill.

If a steel lid make up 12 "nuts" from 1/4" x 1/2" x 3/4" steel (drill and tap).

Now make a fixture to hold the pivot ends of the hinges at the proper width. With the lid outside of the car and upside down duct tape the hinges to the lid. Now cross brace and square up the hinge pivots side to side, making sure the pivot is the same distance from the front of the lid on each side.

Wax the lid in the area of the hinge mount with a mold release paste wax or carnuba based paste wax so the glue in a later step will not adhere (maybe to a test). Mask outside the hinge contact area on the lid.

Rough sand the face of the hinges where they contact the lid... 24 grit is great, 36 ok.

Next you need a slow setting filled epoxy (such as jb weld) or a fiberglass structural bonding putty. Be prepared to work quick. Wear gloves and other correct safety gear. Mix your goop according to mfg recommendations.

Now glue the hinges to the lid. Use the fixtures to properly align the hinges. Don't worry about over slop of glue. Allow the glue to fully cure.

If a fiberglass lid now is the time to drill and tap the screw holes using the hinge as a guide. Be very careful not to damage the outer panel.

Now remove the hinges (again). You may need to tap with a hammer to loosen. The glue should not stick to the lid but be very stuck to the hinge. INSTANT SHIM. Now clean up excess glue from the hinges and out of the mounting holes. Clean up the lid.

If a steel lid mark the hole locations using the hinges as a guide. Now remove the hinges and drill the holes oversize (about 3/8"... being careful not to damage the outer panel). Debur the back side. Make sure you can get the nuts onto the screws (weld wire tabs if needed). Then using the hinges as a locating fixture permanently install the nuts using epoxy or spot welds.

Re: rumble lid hinges
 

I'm just going through the same thing. Original lid repo hardware. I just got original hardware so I hope things will fit up better. I'll let you know.

John Poole