Torque Tube
 

I have an oil leak where the torque tube bolts to the banjo housing. I've wiped it clean and after a time oil appears in the seam between the flanges. Bolts are tight but there does not appear to be a gasket in there.

Rear end is not over-filled..

I thought I might disconnect the rear wishbone, remove the torque tube flange bolts and try to separate the tube and banjo by 1/4" or so, enough to clean the area and spread some form-a-gasket or other sealer on the mating surfaces and then bolt it back together...

Will I damage anything by sliding the torque tube forward?

Is there anything inside that will come apart or get disconnected that will create a bigger problem?

Thanks

Randy

Re: Torque Tube
 

If you are going to split the joint you will want to first check the surfaces. Before I assemble any metal to metal like that joint I lightly run a file on the surface to find and remove any dings that raise the level.

What level is the oil in the rear? What type of oil too, the proper steam cylinder oil is very thick and nasty smelling which is less likely to leak. How is the level of oil in the tranny? Is the tranny oil the same correct type oil? Has the car been lowered in the front?

This joint should not leak and should not have a gasket. The torque tube holds the pinion double bearing in place. Any space could allow that bearing (and the pinion position) to move.

If all else fails, look up a gasket material called 'The Right Stuff'.

Re: Torque Tube
 

Oil in the rear is just a little below the fill plug opening.

Oil in the transmission is at about the same level, just below the fill opening.

Both have 600w as sold by the vendors

Truck has not been lowered any more than can be accounted for by old springs.

Though the bolts were safety wired they were not tight...

I have heard of "the right stuff" and will get some...

Re: Torque Tube
 

how about removing each bolt one at a time and sealing / tightening them first

Re: Torque Tube
 

A easy fix I would clean the joint,use some black RTV on the joint,making a bead around like welding,tap or dap move a little,tap or dap. I have done this on aircraft engine case halfes looks very nice when finished. I do think there sould be a gasket there I am not awear of non gasket joints on model a's

Re: Torque Tube
 

a gasket was not originally used between the banjo and tube on the A .. the gasket sets come with a gasket which i always use anyway....

Re: Torque Tube
 

If you locate the gasket and want to install it without disassembling the drive train consider this tip.
slit the top of the gasket and position it in place and then tighten the bolts.
I know a guy who has used this to avoid the disassembly.
Bob

Re: Torque Tube
 

Another approach to a quick fix is to wire brush the joint between the torque tube and the banjo housing to a clean metal surface. Fill the joint with some JB Weld and let dry over night. You can then repaint it. I used this method on the lower part of the joint of the banjo/axle housing to seal up a leak. It has been three years with no leaks. It sure beats taking it all apart.

Re: Torque Tube
 

Thanks for the ideas...

I bought some Right Stuff, and I have gasket material, but no gasket for a pattern.....

I think a little more diagnosis is needed first...the torque flange showed no leakage this morning, so I'll need to drive it and re-check, the oil probably gets thrown up there when driving, or maybe tightening the bolts did the trick..

Also it is seeping(enough to drip now and then) from the bottom-front of the drivers side axle housing joint...so I'll also pull the bolts (after draining!) and seal the threads, and maybe a little right stuff around the seam..

With any luck I'll only have to drain it once....

Re: Torque Tube
 

always try the easy stuff first like you did seal and tighten the bolts....
using right stuff or any rtv sealer as a cast or muck job without separating components will not work....

Re: Torque Tube
 

OK, I drained the rear end, removed and replaced each axle housing bolt individually and sealed the threads.

The torque tube would only move forward about .006" with the rear radius rod disconnected.

So I pushed some Permatex into the small gap between the flanges, and then forced it in further with some dental floss:D....and I left the floss in there...it's around the outside edge of the bolts so no danger of it going further..

I'm waiting for the permatex to set before adding the oil..

Tomorrow will tell if I plugged any leaks...or created more!

Re: Torque Tube
 

What happened?

John

Re: Torque Tube
 

Just finished rebuilding the rear end on our 1928 Tudor yesterday. Notwithstanding other significant issues, we had a leak at the torque tube/ banjo joint. It had no gasket. However, research and dismantling a virgin rear axle from another early 1928, indicated that Ford did not use a gasket at that joint.

Our leak was caused by an inadequate transmission rebuild that had omitted the rear oil slinger on the main shaft. This allowed oil to migrate through the u-joint and into the torque tube. This was exacerbated by a worn seal at the front of the torque tube. The result over the summer, as I topped up the transmission oil, I also filled the torque tube with 600W! Quite a surprise when I removed the speedo drive to start pulling the rear end. I did not expect a face-full of 600W from there.:eek:

Re: Torque Tube
 

John,

No leaks so far.....sorry for leaving this hanging....I should have followed up.....probably a little over 1000 miles since the repair...

Randy

Re: Torque Tube
 

I'm waiting for someone to try this stuff

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8209...ews/B0018PW15I

Let us know if it works.

Re: Torque Tube
 

Thanks Randy, What all has to come apart to get that little gap? Not sure a couple drips a week will be worth it.

John

Re: Torque Tube
 

Saw an old farmer's fix on this joint. He loosened the bolts and spread the flanges enough to wind many wraps of dental floss around the bolts. I don't know how many miles were on the fix but it wasn't leaking when I got the A.

Re: Torque Tube
 

I think I removed the radius rod bolt from the transmission end and then loosened the flange bolts. It was tough to get much of a gap. I cleaned it with brake cleaner then I pressed as much Permatex as I could into the gap before using the floss.

Farmer fix for sure...but it's worked so far.

But there is a little more to it. I have since replaced the transmission. It had a 4-speed in it which leaked enough that it dripped from the u-joint clam and the speedo turtle, so the oil may have been coming from there and working it's way down the torque tube.