Removing rear shock links
 

I am trying to remove the rear shocks from my '37 standard former. I just can't get the bottom of the link where it connects to the rear spring mount to break free. I have removed the drum but the short of the link is still half hidden behind the brake backing plate so I can't get a direct shot at it with a brass drift. I think my only choice is to remove the backing plate, but figured I would ask here before I go to a lot of extra work. I should add that my car has been converted to what looks like '39 hydraulic brakes. I don't want to use a pickle fork and ruin a perfectly good link. Does anybody have a simpler solution?

Re: Removing rear shock links
 

The mount bolts usually have a tapered shaft which makes removal difficult if they have been in place for decades. The original links were in two parts held together by a pair of bolts. When the link is off, there should be room for a pickle fork or other tool. I have always had to apply heat to get them out of the hole. using a fork or other method. New links are not expensive, less than $20 at C&G

Re: Removing rear shock links
 

I get those out by backing the nut off a couple turns, then using a 16" long x 1-1/2" dia. piece of aluminum bar stock, placed against that nut, I hit the other end of the bar with a 2-1/2 # hammer a good wack or two. This usually breaks the taper loose. Then remove the nut and shock link from spring hanger.

Re: Removing rear shock links
 

I tried to use a brass drift with about a two pound hammer against the nut after I had backed it off enough so that the drift would not hit the threads. That didn't work so I guess I will try to apply a little heat to the mount and see if that helps. I know that the links are not expensive, but I hate to destroy something if it can be saved. It must be the cheapskate part of me.

Re: Removing rear shock links
 

I do not believe a brass drift will work like the piece of bar stock I use. The bar stock material could be aluminum, brass, or copper. One end of the bar stock is placed against that slightly loosened nut at an angle necessary because the drum/backing plate prevents direct in line access. A much harder blow can be delivered directely against the other end of the bar stock. Some heat in the area of the link attachment to the spring hanger may help, but I have personally never found heat to be necessary to remove any shock link using this procedure.

Re: Removing rear shock links
 

Ok. I will try some bar stock when I can get out to the garage again.

Re: Removing rear shock links
 

Horrible Freight has a set of assorted pullers that mix and match for that sort of application. I used one in the set for the shock links another for the steering wheel, and another for the rear hubs. The puller for the rear hub will work if you widen the jaw a bit to fit the notch on the drum. WAY cheaper than the KRW puller and if it breaks (mine did GREAT) you only out less than $20 (price for that puller separately) and got plenty left for a couple more. The whole puller kit is more than that but still worth the price when you factor in all the aggravation under the car and skint body parts.

Re: Removing rear shock links
 

I was thinking of going to HF to see what I could get as far as pullers. For the front shocks there is more room than in the rear so maybe a tie rod end puller would work for them.

Right now the weather is letting us know that even though it is spring, it can feel like winter so it will be a few days before I get back into the garage.

Re: Removing rear shock links
 

I got my rear shocks loose using the BFH and steel bar method. I must be getting weak because it took a half dozen whacks with a six pound hammer to get the suckers to break free. Now all I have to do is get the shocks removed from the frame. I am hoping that will be somewhat easier.

Thanks for all the help.

Re: Removing rear shock links
 

I had the same problem with my '37 rear shock links. Bill Wzorek sent me a tool to remove them which I returned with the old shocks for rebuilding. The links came off easily with the tool. You might check with him. My unrestored '37 still has the original front shocks but both rears were frozen. The ride improvement was/is amazing.

Re: Removing rear shock links
 

I am glad that I got mine loose. I think I have a source for some rebuilt shocks, but if that falls through I will be contacting Bill. I may contact him anyhow just to get the ones I have rebuilt because I would know that they are good.

Re: Removing rear shock links
 

I got the rear shocks removed today. As I suspected they are both in need of some attention if they are going to be reused again. The right rear shock has very limited travel and the left rear shock feele like it is and has been bone dry for some time.

Knowing how good those shocks are I guess I will remove the front shocks too. I would be surprised if they are in pristine condition with the rears being bad.