Parts
 

Newbie here. I am shifting instrests from Hit & Miss engines to restoring a Model A for the time being. I have not restored any vintage Fords before and would like to know which supplier supplies the most made in the USA parts?

John

Re: Parts
 

John, welcome to Fordbarn. Unfortunately, ...while your question sounds like it is worded correctly, the issue is more & more of the better quality parts are being made off-shore. Therefore since there may be two Model-A 'widgets' manufactured outside of this country, you need to know who makes the better of the two, --and who sells it. You may ask why aren't the better quality parts made here states-side, and the brutal truth is America has ceased to become a manufacturing country so by-in-large, the craft of manufacturing with Q/C is very hard to find and when found, comes with a substantial price tag.

My suggestion is for you to ask here first for recommendations on each item you need, ...and then find a knowledgable vendor that you can have a repeat relationship with so you know the proper questions to ask them too. After a while, you will know who you can trust to offer the best quality parts.

Re: Parts
 

Re: Parts
 

Okay thanks, First question without impending debate of original vs. modified vintage Fords. Modern shocks that have a hole drilled in the front axle or the mod. with the front axel clamp and holes drilled in the rear cross member? I would like to have 1/2 & 1/2 with out any drilling but I gues that is not possible. Mikes and Snyder are the choices.

Other question: King pin bushings and bearing

John

Re: Parts
 

I would like to explain my position on mods, as I am sure it is a topic as hot as painting Hit & Miss engines. I believe my vehicle is as original as can be without actual verification by a judging book. I am interesting in modifing the shocks taking into consideration economics, saftey, ride and being able to return to original without any changes that can not be reversed to original condition. I want his car to be able to return to original upon my demise - hopefully not in the near future.

John

Re: Parts
 

A worthy goal.

Tubular shocks are probably not the best way to go for a couple of reasons. First, most of the shock brackets require modification to the axles or the frame to mount the tube - mostly these are "reversible" - but define reversible? Some new entries to this arena that I'm not familiar with may have gotten past the reversibility aspect?

Original Houdaille type shocks are being reproduced - and in extreme quality - and in cost commensurate with the quality. But these are probably the best you can do for both ride, originality, and possibly durability. They are engineered to be Ford design 60/40 dampening which most other shocks are not.

Aftermarket shocks are available in several forms.

You've mentioned tubular modern replacements. NOT 60/40 usually, although many have "features" that supposedly make them superior. Even adjustments (Monroe-Matic?) The non-reversibility I mentioned.

Friction shocks were favored by many in the 1950s and still are made new at a fairly reasonable price - probably pricewise comparable with tubular shocks and possibly less. Many sneer at friction shocks - but they're really about equivalent functionally to tubular shocks - plus they have the advantage of built in adjustability (I think the big attraction in the 1950s - it gave "something else" to play with.)

A new contender of interest for me is the Brit "lever shocks" which are hydraulic based on a rack and pinion/piston but have seen good service over the pond since before WWII. At least one brand of these is a direct replacement of the Houdaille shocks of the Model A - including the shock links. Priced about mid-way between tubular and New Houdaille type they offer a similar compromise on ride.

So you see you have many options. I tend to like the friction shock idea - but they're probably the biggest shock bang for the buck - and are frequently used on street rods and other higher end users who DO have an engineering appreciation - and understand something of the dynamics of damped oscillation.

And welcome to our club.

Joe K

Re: Parts
 

John: If you anticipate buying a large # of parts you might consider the location of the supplier. Postage can be a large part of your total cost.

Re: Parts
 

Ok but what happens if a nearby dealer does not carry the highest quality parts?

Re: Parts
 

Try to make a bucket list and order as many as possible at one time to save on shipping costs. When you order ask the cost of shipping so there is no surprise or complaint concerning shipping costs when the part(s) arrive ! Wayne

Re: Parts
 

Hi John,

Welcome to the Barn and the addiction we all love. Since you are familiar with H&M engines, your mechanical skills should be perfect for the our cars. That being said, they do have their quirks so it is advisable to ask here and join a local club. Also as I am sure you know, NEVER throw anything away. These parts, well at least a huge portion are designed to be rebuilt. Also get Les Andrew's red and blue (?) books. Do these three things and you will be in good stead.

As far as parts go, there are a few place that I go to (and these are my personal go to places-so far). Craigslist is a great place to get stuff to squirrel away for later. There is also Bert's, Snyder's and Bratton's. Don't forget swap meets as well. Now, how about some pics?

Mike

Re: Parts
 

Just a suggestion from someone that has been into Model A's for many years. Get a copy of the Judging Standards published jointly by the two national clubs (mafca.com and modelaford.org). Also get a copy of the painting standards from the clubs. Many of the parts interchange across the 4 years but frequently the correct part (per the standards) will be the same price as the incorrect part. The correct paint color combination will cost the same as the incorrect one. Paint it any color you want but at least consider the correct colors. The closer the car is to original both mechanically and paint colors the more it will be worth when you sell it.

Charlie Stephens

Re: Parts
 

Aermotor;

Your screen name caught my eye, having been in the windmill businees for a good number of years.

Since you are an engine guy, fluted, sausage or 8 cycle?

Craig

Re: Parts
 

Unlike a Model A it is an 8 cycle - actually 2 of them.

John

Re: Parts
 

Here is the problem with 90% of all mods, if PROPERLY restored the original part will work as well as any mod.

So you need to make a decision, properly restore or have it restored by a knowledgeable person, or replace it with a more modern part because it is easier and maybe cheaper.

There is a difference between have to and want to.

Re: Parts
 

I am going to make my shock absorber decision on economics and reversability. $340 on modern shocks that clamp on the front axle and require 2 holes to be drilled in the rear frame. The reversible part, as I understand, is a $1200 Houdaille overhaul. The unreversible part is "undrilling" the two holes in the rear frame.

John

Re: Parts
 

"...a $1200 Houdaille overhaul." Not exactly true. To purchase brand new manufactured shocks are 1200 dollars. To have original shocks rebuilt is much cheaper. To avoid the drilling part, there are also MGB shocks that can be made to work.

Is always good to ask questions here to get "more than one way to skin a cat".

Re: Parts
 

Ken Davis tube shocks don't require drilling on the rear, but they do on the front.

There was a set of "new" Houdaille shocks on the Swap Meet yesterday for $400, but I see that they have now been sold.

Re: Parts
 

Sullivan's and Snyders also only require two small holes to be drilled in the front.
Wayne

Re: Parts
 

John,
I have tubular shocks with no drilling nesasary front or rear. I got them from Schwalms in PA. $355. Tel.717-687-6976.

Re: Parts
 

Went to Mike's "A" Fordable yesterday and can not express what a pleasent experiance it was. I called the day before and inquired about some parts and told them I MIGHT come Friday - the parts were on the table and Eric assisted getting the rest up. He was very honest in the quaity of the parts choices. I have found my supplier. I also had 8 brake shoes reconditioned to look like new in less time than it took to get the parts up. Thanks to, whoever, I don't remember your name - Thanks to Eric and all. Anyone traveling to or from Atlanta north on I-85 stop and see them. Beautiful place and show cars on display.
I don't know how to put stars by a post topic but here are 5 *****

John