Flat o matic.
 

I have here a flat o matic kit, came out of a car that's having a brand X monkey motion thing slapped in it. Now I didn't remove it, the bloke putting the wrong engine in did, I have the torque converter, bell housing and flex plate (not sure if you guys call it a flex plate, if not it's the chap with the starter ring around its edge), I've read the flatomatic installation stuff and it mentions a spacer that may be needed twix the crank flange and flex plate, anybody know the thickness of said spacer? I can then make him up ready for if I need it.
Many thanks,
Martin.

Re: Flat o matic.
 

Hopefully some one on here will pipe up if they have one of these kits. If not, you might go on the Flat-O web site and contact them via e-mail. Since you are out of the USA, it might be easier than figuring the time differential to call them.

Re: Flat o matic.
 

If there is to much distance from the flexplate to the torque converter is will take the splines out of the pump. Place the converter all the way back into the pump. Measure the distance from the converter to the flexplate. (when flexplate is mounted with no spacer between the plate and the crank) If I remember right, it should be no more than 3/16 between the converter and the flexplate. If more than that, the pump could possibly not work. You can shim the crank to flexplate to close the gap. I guess you could add shims (washers) between the plate and the converter and do the same thing.

Re: Flat o matic.
 

I have in storage a Flatomatic C4 kit . Without looking, I remember the spacers if needed went between the crank flange & the flexplate (flywheel). They are only needed if the flexplate rubs on the COVER of the oil pump drive gear. Not very thick.
If you find that you need specific numbers I could dig them out.
Buy the way, I would sell my un-used kit.

Re: Flat o matic.
 

You can reach Gene Benson, the owner of Flat-O Products on his site [email protected] or his phone number in Salem, Oregon. 503-364-2934
I have installed 2 of these kits and the spacer you are referring to is to move the flexplate away from the back of the block so that the nuts that hold on the torque converter don't hit the oil pump gear extension on the back of the block. Not all kits require this spacer as I remember. It was about 3/16 inch thick. It is easy to see if it is a problem by slipping the flexplate on the crank and then slide the torque converter onto the flexplate. Depending on which engine you are working with makes a call to Gene the best bet. Google his company in Salem, Oregon and I'm sure you will find him.

Re: Flat o matic.
 

Thanks chaps,
From what I've read in the instructions it's a balancing act between the torque converter nuts hitting the cam/oil pump idler cover and the starter ring gear hitting the starter bendix gear with the starter at rest.
Apparently there is a need to clearance grind an area on the block to miss the torque converter bolts on pre 8BA engines.
I'll knock one up out of some 3/16" stock. It states the normal way of mounting the parts is, spacer on then flexplate, and check clearance at the starter gears. It's due to this info I've reckoned that I'll probably need the spacer.
42Merc, if it's really not to much bother, I'd love to have the measured thickness.
Chris,
You've fitted two of these kits, what do you think of the way it works? Did you find that the C4 eat all your power and turned the car into a slug? Or did they feel like they had the same power as before, and your left leg liked you much more? Just so I know what to expect.
Thanks for the info all,
I won't be contacting Gene, I spoke to him before about an article in an old American Rodder magazine, from this experience I guess he didn't like "over sea folk" or maybe just me. Real shame, every other person I've spoke to in the USA has been unbelievably courteous and helpful. Except Flathead Jack, he was just unbelievable!
Again many thanks,
Martin.

Re: Flat o matic.
 

Scooder, the Flat-o #1001 spacer is .125" (1/8").

Enjoy, Don

Re: Flat o matic.
 

You also need a pilot bushing for the crank.

Re: Flat o matic.
 

Scooder I have installed a lot of the flatomatic conversions. there's a few issues to be aware of. First do not put a spacer between the crank flange and flywheel if you need to make up any distance put washers between the torque converter and flywheel this will be much better. The converter must pull out of the transmission only enough so it is not bottomed out do not pull it out any more than 1/8 of an inch. The oil pan rail at the rear of the block usually needs to be clearanced a little to clear the thin nuts usually the oil pump drive gear cover is not in the way. The torque converter has a 5/8 diameter pilot this will fit directly into early crankshafts without any bushing. An aluminum bushing is used to adapt the converter to any crankshaft with a larger center hole. I have seen the supplied bushing to be of poor machined quality the hole is not centered in the bushing this will cause damage to the pump and flywheel. Like any aftermarket bell housing you must check it to the crank center line I find the bell housing is always off center the last one I just completed was off .035 top to bottom and off .018 side to side. With new offset dowel pins I was able to get the bell housing under.005 to the center line. The more its offset the more the torque converter pulls on the flywheel which eventfully causes the flywheel to break in the center around the crank shaft flange.
This conversion is OK out of the box BUT if you take the time to check the acuracy it will be perfect.

Re: Flat o matic.
 

Ronnieroadster..... A question was asked in post #6 if the auto trans robs the power. What do you think?.... MARK

Re: Flat o matic.
 

Thanks for the info again guys.
Ronnie,
That's some real good stuff right there.
Makes sence too,
A guy I know had a flatomatic in an F100, had repeated trouble with the front pump/input shaft area in the C4, what you've said about centering the kit would have fixed this I bet.
Really appreciate the posts,
Martin.

Re: Flat o matic.
 

Mark I have not noticed any power loss with the C-4 even behind stock flatheads. Everyone I have helped with this combination really enjoy the feel and power. The flathead engine seems to really like the auto conversion with a higher rear gear like 325 its a great conversion.
On my wife's Deuce coupe Hot Rod with the C-4 its really amazing how well it runs and pulls the engine is only a .060 over stock bore and 3-3/4 stroke the final ratio in my Halibrand is 280 the car fly's right along nicely.
Ron

Re: Flat o matic.
 

Scooder I enjoy passing on what I think will help others enjoy their flathead powered rides. Its important to check the acuracy of all the parts in the conversion. I have also found the torque converters to be off center as well. Each time I check the converter in my lath i verify how close is the pilot to the transmission end of the converter if i find its off I corect thsi by modifying the pilot on the converter. i also check the height of the four mounting pads. Squaring the converter is important thsi will also save the flywheel from breaking in the center along the crank shaft mounting holes. The torque converters supplied with the kit has been rebuilt to do that the converter si cut open along the center line. When the two halfs are welded back together usually they are not very square this causes the other problem with the kit.
Ron

Re: Flat o matic.
 

Ron,
You've made my feeling of apprehension about fitting the C4, into a feeling of excitement, with your experience of the performance of this combination.
I have to do this due to bad knees, stock flathead and clutch operated in normal rpm, is not to bad. Driving it like I stole it, the pedal pressure at north of 6G is excessive. So my truck is standard shift and overdrive, clutchless changes below governor speed, and automatic shift between second to overdrive second around town, equates to less clutch work. My little A roadster will be flathead and C4, now I'll be able to kick its arse without me suffering the pain.
I'd kinda excepted the C4 was gonna suck some power, wasn't happy about it though. From your experience of this combination, I'm now a very happy bunny.
All the best,
Martin.
Ps. I'll be sure to check the centering of the pilot, and pad hights, before installation.

Re: Flat o matic.
 

Is your Flatomatic kit still available? If so, how much are you asking for it? Thank you!

Re: Flat o matic.
 

Flat-O-Matic Kit - as seen on the H.A.M.B.
https://external-content.duckduckgo....4836d4eb4e7dff