valve job?
 

Hi Gents,

So I am still a newbie in my mind after 6 seasons with my car ('30 Tudor) and since every season brings more new and different things to work on, it is all new to me!

Someone mentioned in another thread about a motor on his test stand needing a valve job. I have the Les Andrews red book, but it doesn't talk about when or if an engine needs a valve job.

My engine is a really old build; the elderly person I bought it from told me that it had never been rebuilt, although I don't believe that. He bought the car in 1964, and because this one sat for twenty five + years, he owned several more cars and this car really was a garage queen.

The engine is admittedly sloppy, or at least sounds sloppy to me, with all kinds of slaps, raps and knocks. But it does run strong and it has been a happy tourer.

So how do I know if it needs a valve job? I hear of people doing them but what tells you it needs one? I have had sticky valves, but with some MM oil and running her often, she behaves.

Thanks for all constructive criticism and comments.

JackD

Re: valve job?
 

"with all kinds of slaps, raps and knocks. But it does run strong"
a bit of a contradiction.

If you are not doing very many miles a yr ('ice cream car') then leave it alone.

Compression test properly done (there are 2 components to a full compression test) will tell you. Also, if the head should ever come off you can look and see and determine if there are burned valves (typically exhaust) by visual inspection.
An easy step right now would be to remove the side cover (you need not remove the manifolds to do this) and check valve lash. If there is little or no lash (I set all my valves to .013 no matter what anyone else says) then you most assuredly have a burned valve somewhere.
Vacuum gauge would also show burned valves and you don't have to take anything apart
The MMO is the best idea since sliced bread!

But my first take is leave it alone!
good luck

Re: valve job?
 

Agree totally- it sounds like it's either that or a complete rebuild and I know which I'd choose!

Re: valve job?
 

I agree with the compression test, you probably won't sleep nights until you do it. As long as all holes are fairly close to each other, you're fine. If the engine is old and tired then I wouldn't worry much about total readings, just how close each is to each other.
Removing the side cover [ manifolds don't have to come off] and checking for some lash isn't a bad thing to do. If its been that long since a rebuild, or never having a rebuild, then it just may have non adjustable lifters. So any lash at least .010" on intakes and about .013" on exhaust should be fine.

Re: valve job?
 

Thank you for the replies. I received a compression tester for Christmas from Harbor Freight (not sure of the quality but it does seem adequate for comparison from cylinder to cylinder).

The engine has a fair knock (clunkity clunk) and it has gotten worse in the last couple years, but I have no trouble keeping up with traffic and certainly no issue with keeping up in a Model A tour, and I even have to keep from running away when I lead a tour.

My problem with tearing anything apart is that I know it will be no simple quick engine rebuild, as this car is very much unmolested so a LOT of things need rebuilt because of wear.

But the sounds are telling me that she is in need of some serious effort eventually. But until then, we just love this car. Now I understand how people end up with more than one!

Re: valve job?
 

I think it would be a good idea to check rod & main clearance before you trash your engine

Re: valve job?
 

Get yourself a stethoscope, big screwdriver, dowel, piece of hose,etc. and try and locate the noise[s]. If you can pin point the locations and the sounds we can probably figure out what it is.

Re: valve job?
 

The best way I have found for checking valve condition is a leak down test
easy to do and will give accurate results