Woodgraining
 

Does anyone know which parts should be wood grained on a '31 deluxe coupe (45B)? And does anyone know where I can get those parts done?

Thx.

Re: Woodgraining
 

The most obvious is the dash rail, door mouldings, rear window moulding, and the quarter window mouldings. These are mahogany wood grain. The people I have used is Grainit Technology in Winter Haven, Florida. Excellent work. Also I am going to use a fellow at Honest Charlies in Chattanooga. Google both. There are many other places around the country that others here on the Forum can recommend.

Re: Woodgraining
 

Re: Woodgraining
 

honest charlies is on the barn ck on the v-8 side... i think many have used their services

Re: Woodgraining
 

Most larger restoration shops have the capability to do it in-house using the photo-etched plate method.


What I have learned that makes the price difference is more about the "Pre" & "Post" work, ...and not necessarily the woodgraining application itself. To start with, how is the artist prepping the window trim? Are they media blasting it or wire brushing it? Are there any dents in any of the metal? Some jobs I have seen by "Pros" leave the dents, waviness, & marks in the metal. Granted this is a small detail to some folks but it does cost money to make proper repairs to correct this. Next, ask what kind of primer they will be using. You can save $$ by allowing the artist to use a spray can single-stage primer over a catalyzed 2k urethane primer. Also ask if they will be using filler (Bondo) or work the dents out with a Hammer & Dolly. Ask if they scuff sand or whether they block the piece.

Again, the actual pattern transfer process takes about the same time no matter who the artist is providing this ain't their first 'rodeo'. I will also tell you that not using a plate-transfer method (hand drawn pattern) is quicker to do however it lacks the crisp detail when compared to the plate.

In closing, ask them what type of clear coat are they using. Again, some use a spray can of lacquer clear. A couple of thin coats are much different in costs vs. a couple of spray 2k urethane coats. Ask the artist if they will be color-sanding and hand-polishing the clear afterward. Where this is most noticed is in the crevices and corners.

Again, it is all in the quality level expected. The better quality jobs take more time, --which translates into more $$. If you find a shop that does it for less, check to make sure you are comparing apples-to-apples between the two artists.

Re: Woodgraining
 

Great post, Brent!

Re: Woodgraining
 

Has anybody tried hydrodipping?

Re: Woodgraining
 

While I have not, ....remember what I posted above. It is the 'pre' work and the 'post' work that is time consuming (what makes it cost what it does). Hydrodipping is only the application but it is not the time consuming part. I would also venture a guess that because of the newer technology in conjunction with a one-off application, I would not think there would be a cost advantage using that process.

Re: Woodgraining
 

Here is one option:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOg8B656ARc

Re: Woodgraining
 

C26, Grainit got me for about $900. and change and that was about 11 years ago. They are high but good. Years ago they bought Benny Estes business and he was the best in the country!

Re: Woodgraining
 

Thanks Dale !
Wayne

Re: Woodgraining
 

Take a look at these pictures of my coupe new interior project. This included me doing the woodgraining using the Grainit process.

1931 Deluxe Coupe

Re: Woodgraining
 

Conrad and Dottie Gerdes
P.O. Box 458
Dillsboro Indiana 47018
812-584-5631 or 812-584-5639
I have not used them personally but I have seen there great work.
They do all kinds of restoration work as well as woodgraining.

Re: Woodgraining
 

TinCup, that looks great!

Re: Woodgraining
 

Attached (hopefully) is one of the rear window frames I did for a friend for his 400-A, using the Grain-It Technologies plate on a "Carpathian Elm" base. As Brent suggested, the end finish has a lot to do with the preparation. You might want to consider trying this yourself - the cost of materials would probably run about the same as the cost to pay someone else to grain your pieces, and the personal satisfaction level would probably serve as a point of pride for you down the road. The good thing about this process is that the ink can be put on and taken off again until the "artist" is satisfied with the end result. I've also used actual printer's ink for some of the mahogany grains that I have done, but this will tend to darken the base coat if more than one or two applications is applied. Its best to use a large roller (on big expanses) and exercise plenty of patience, and while there are techniques that you may pick up over time, it is not an impossible task, just very tedious. Good luck if you decide to do your own.

Dick

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...94d6&zw&atsh=1