Break in period
 

So I have this newly inserted Model A engine in the car and running. Seems to do fine, though I haven't put any real miles on it yet, probably five. I heated it up good and rechecked the torque on the head, 50 Lbs all around, nothing changed. The last rebuild I had was stock babbitt and I suppose the inserts mean a bit or change in break in strategy? I'm considering a haul from Danville, CA to Boise, Idaho, then an oil change before returning to Danville. I have a Mitchell and am thinking or backroads for starters then easing into the Interstates at 45/50 if traffic will allow me to go that slow. The speedometer is right on with my GPS and I'm running 3:54 rear end and 16 in tires, which Mitchell tells me is the same as stock 3:78 with the 21's. What is the thinking? I have an oil gauge that shows 35 psi when warm. I plan to change to Rotella on my first oil change, 10/50.

Re: Break in period
 

I would drive easy through the neighborhood to give the engine several heat/cool cycles before you take it on a long sustained drive. Recheck the head torque several times.

Studebaker put a restrictor plate under the carb to keep the RPM's down, then the dealer removed the plate when the customer came in for the 1000 mile checkup. This sounds like a good idea.

Re: Break in period
 

Re: Break in period
 

if you just spent some cold cash on some nice new inserts i sure hope you have an oil filter on there.
that would be my first concern

follow your builder's procedure; why did he not already tell you i wonder

Barring that, for us (per several sources including McPherson College antique car resto program) we break in the A at 1200 rpm for 30 min, re-torquing along the way at 10 min and 30 min. Then we put 100 miles on it with hard local driving. You want to seat those rings! If you wanted to jump right into a long trip after that, I'd put another 500-1000 miles on it with a combo of local and highway before i began that trip.

I'd do an oil change at 100 miles, then every 2000-3000 with a filter, and every 1000 without. An oil change is cheap insurance.

Have a nice trip!

Re: Break in period
 

Follow the engine rebuilder's instructions. Afterwards run a modern synthetic or a synthetic blend motor oil. Happy trails to you.

Re: Break in period
 

No overdrive for the first 1000 miles. People don't realize how much load overdrive adds to a motor. If your tuning is off and you put your motor under load you can burn up the motor real quick. Nothing over 40 for the first 200 miles, after that stay under 50 until 500 miles. After 500 drive it where it wants to be drivAt a 800-1000 you can start using overdrive because your rings should be mostly seated by then. It's better to run a motor a little on the rich side while breaking one in. Lean will burn up a piston. Your head should be torqued at 55 lbs. fluctuate your speeds, this will help seat the rings faster. Check your plug color along the way to make sure your carb tuning is right. Always check cylinder #3 because it runs the hottest, therefor the leanest. If that cylinder is correct, they'll all be fine. I'd put a couple hundred miles on it before making a several hundred mile trip in it. Change oil at the first 200 miles, then again at about the 5-600 mile mark, and every 1000-1500 miles after that if you don't run a filter.

Re: Break in period
 

Thanks for all the input. I have a filter and will change the oil at 200 miles out. But I think I better pass on the trip to Idaho. Can't fit the 200 miles local into the time allowance. But I'll do what I can to get a varied few hundred miles on it before I go any trips where it will remain hot for any period of time. I will re-torque to 55 psi next time I pull it out to drive it until warmed thoroughly. Also will check the plugs. I put a few tablespoons of oil in each plug hole before starting and turned it over by hand several times as it had set about a week since the rebuild. Neighbors weren't really pleased with the resulting smoke, but I believe that I didn't scratch up the piston walls. Sounds pretty nice and is pretty much vibration free for a four. Again thanks for the tips. Next item is brakes.

Re: Break in period
 

RE: Post #6,
First of all, the tuning should be "precise" before driving with a new engine.
Second, I NEVER heard of an overdrive putting too much load on an engine & causing overheating or improper seating in of the rings!
Third, DON'T forget to do multiple head re-torqueing, Just FORGET about the rings, they will DO what they're designed to DO!
OLD "break-in stories" ABOUND!!!
Bill W.

Re: Break in period
 

If used properly overdrive won't hurt break in. It's just some people think it's okay to run overdrive at to low of rpm and lug it around. Not good for any motor, really not good for a new motor.

Re: Break in period
 

Uncle Bill, even in diesel school they taught us to not baby the motor in break-in. Not to drive like a maniac at 90 mph but not to limit top speed to to a weasely 30 mph either. If you allow the cylinders to glaze over due to milktoast driving the rings will never seat properly:);)

Re: Break in period
 

Don't lug the engine. Logan is right about the overdrive. Don't use the Mitchell until you have the rings fully seated ... 800 to 1000 miles minimum. Don't lug the engine. After that, drop out of overdrive when you come to a long hill or are running into the wind. Don't lug the engine. Notice the repetitive theme of my advice. I cannot repeat enough times to avoid lugging the engine.
Good Day!

Re: Break in period
 

Even when you buy a NEW car, they already have enough running time on them to be driven NORMALLY.
Bill W.

Re: Break in period
 

The rule of thumb that I've always known is, break in time is the first 500 miles. Vering the speed 30, 40 , 50. Then change the oil and drive the car as normal without pushing it to hard until your at 1000 miles. Re-torque the head a couple of times in the first 500 miles and you should be good to go.

The Old TInbasher

Re: Break in period
 

new cars now and new cars in the past have had very different break in periods. Snyder's sells an engine and has this with it.
Inspect the flywheel housing for cracks before installing. If you find any cracks in your flywheel housing, you will either need to purchase a new one or find a good original that is crack free.
When installing the flywheel housing bolts, use permatex on the bolt threads.
Use permatex RTV high temp ultra black silicone maker on the flywheel housing to block gasket around the rear cam bearing to prevent oil leaks out the rear cam bearing.
Dial indicate the flywheel housing {see attached pages 2-22 to 2-23 from the Model A Mechanics Handbook, Vol. 1. Les Andrews)
Engine oil must be added to your newly rebuilt engine. The Model A has a 5 quart capacity. To begin the break-in of the engine, put 2 quarts of 15-40W detergent oil in the crankcase. Add the other 3 quarts through the distributor hole in the head. This allows the mains to have oil before the oil pump can feed the mains. Also, at this time, make sure your radiator is topped off with coolant.
Note: A rebuilt motor is going to be tight and consequently run hotter than your old motor did until it gets broken in. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO NOT OVERHEAT THE MOTOR! Make sure you have a properly functioning water pump, a good radiator, and that your vehicle is properly timed. These motors have heat indicating tabs attached to the back of the cylinder head, and the front of the block. Warranty will be void if the heat indi­cating tabs have been removed or if the tabs indicate that the motor was overheated.
Note: Ignition/Carburation. It is important that the distributor and carburetor are also rebuilt or in good working order to ensure that your newly rebuilt engine will run and perform as Henry meant them to. Time your distributor and adjust your carburetor according to Ford specifications.
Note: To ensure proper fuel mixture and no exhaust leak, the manifold should be checked for straightness. If they are warped, the manifold can be resurfaced as a matched pair, intake and exhaust. Having this done also lessens the chance of a cracked manifold. since the manifold will not be stressed when bolted to the engine.
CAUTION: Do not at any time place heavy strain on the engine during the break in period. If you follow the break in instructions, you can expect long engine life.
Starting the engine for break-in: Run the engine for a period of ten to fifteen minutes, just above idle with the spark half advanced. After ten to fifteen minutes of running/ allow the engine to cool down. Repeat this process for a total of two hours of running time. Blue smoke may appear at the tailpipe. This is because the piston rings are not seated. The piston rings can take up to 1000 miles to seat to the cylinder wall.
For the third hour of stationary engine running, increase the period of running to 20-30 minutes. (Again, just above idle with the spark half advanced.) Engine acceleration during this period is acceptable with momentary bursts only, then returning to just above idle.
After the three hours of running time, retorque the head to 50 foot lbs. See the attached sheet for the proper torque sequence. The head gaskets tend to compress during the engine warm-up. An oil change is also suggested at this time. {15-40W detergent oil).
Now you are ready for the road! If the initial three hours of running time is completed without the engine stopping and/or excessive heat/ you are definitely ready for the road.
After 200 miles have been put on the engine, not exceeding 35 MPH/ an oil change is necessary. (15-40W detergent oil)
Note: Full break-in may not occur until 500 miles have been put on the engine, depending on driving conditions. During this time, keep your speed at or below 35 MPH.
Note: Oil changes should be made every 500 miles or every driving season, whichever comes first. Remember to use 15-40 W detergent oil.
DO NOT USE E85 GAS!

Re: Break in period
 

DON'T WORRY & FUSS. Just drive it with COMMON SENSE, DON'T LUG it & DON'T SCREAM IT! Re-torque the head several times, COLD. Bring it over & for a cool $100.00, I'll break it in for you, while you sit in our Carriage House & SWEAT!!
Bill W.