Adjusting valves
 

Hello All, I'm trying to adjust my valves and just ran into a wall. I seem to have the three wrench type tappets in this B block in an A car. With the tappet all the way up there's not much of the tappet to grab with a wrench. I can't figure how the last guy was able to adjust. I would need the tappet wrench to be about .040 thick. Is this normal? I don't think a sheet metal wrench will do the trick. In the photo the tappet on the right is all the way up. The intakes range from .013" to .017". The exhaust range from .015" to .017" Is this close enough to just call it a day? I have no idea what cam is in there. Thank you for your help!
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps16e554ae.jpg

Re: Adjusting valves
 

I'm always making 'special tools'. It shouldn't take too much to keep the lifter from turning.
As long as you're looking inside the cover, why not just take your time and finish the job. It doesn't take too long and its fun.

Not knowing what camshaft you're using, I think I'd keep the exhausts a bit on the loose side in the .017-.018" range just in case.

Re: Adjusting valves
 

the only way that i see is to measure the clearance with the valve seated, then turn the engine enough to raise the lifter enough to get a wrench on it. adjust and repeat. it will take time and patience. this is why some builders machine a little off the boss. i set my stock cams at .012" intake and .014" exhaust. if yours are at least this much, and the engine is quiet, leave them as-is.

Re: Adjusting valves
 

I've had good success using two wrenches for a 4" grinder. You may find the right size, or you may have to modify it. Good luck.:)

Re: Adjusting valves
 

I'm trying to remember the tappet size. I think 1/2'. Pretty skinny in there. I used a flat bicycle wrench for adjusting bearings. Dirt cheap and about 1/8" thick.
I use the "9" system when I adjusted mine.
Sounds like you do need to adjust them.

Re: Adjusting valves
 

this is a common problem. in the pic he is already at the max lift per what he wrote.
I took a spare 1/2" open end and ground it down quite a bit, quenching often, till i got it thin enough.

I think this lifter type calls for 1/2, 7/16, and 3/8 wrenches. A real pain.

Even tho some of you dislike cutting the lifter bosses, everyone around here does it and has for years with no problems

Re: Adjusting valves
 

What has worked for me after being instructed by an old timer. Determine the lash you have if any, use a drop indicator and when valve is wide open, set your drop indicator to "0". If your lash is .018 and you want .012, adjust the tappet till it moves .006. When the valve is wide open, you can get any wrench made for tappets in there. I have had good success with this method. I also use Vince Falter's rule of 9's when moving from valve to valve.

Re: Adjusting valves
 

"When the valve is wide open, you can get any wrench made for tappets in there."

Look at the pic. The lifter is all the way up. Precious little body is is exposed to get a purchase on. He needs a very thin wrench to hold the lifter body from turning in order to get a diff. wrench on the locknut. We run into this all the time, especially if the cam has been reground