Changing Engine Mounts Back to original
 

Without going into the pros and cons of Original vz FAM rear engine mounts I would like some advice re the process of changing back to original from FAM mounts. Thanks Karl

Re: Changing Engine Mounts Back to original
 

Maybe I'm missing something here but, you remove the FAM mounts and put in the original mounts, it really is that easy.

Re: Changing Engine Mounts Back to original
 

The biggest problem I see is that to install the original mounts you may have to "spread" the frame slightly. One of the porta-powers sold at Harbor Freight or an old time bumper ratchet jack can do this nicely.

Some have issues with the rubber pads. Today's pads are reported to be "too thick" but this may be what they were originally MINUS 80 years of compression - the frame spreading can help overcome this.

And you may want to loosen - but not remove - the front body bolts.

And the job is a WHOLE lot easier with the body off - just for access. But putting the body back kind of undoes the ease.

Joe K

Re: Changing Engine Mounts Back to original
 

Karl

I would suggest you start with the driver side first
Put a wheeled floor jack under the bell housing assembly at the radius cap . Take the pressure off slightly , and undo the drivers side vertical bolt . You may want to have already loosened a bit so you can see when the lift occurs
When pressure is off remove the mount bolts (all) and remove mount. While installing new mount you may have to loosen/remove passenger side vertical bolt to gain enough left to right clearance to install original mount
You may kg ave to adjust jack to get to line up , off corse attaché frame side first
Once drivers side is in and flywheel housing bolts in and tight go do /finish tr passenger side
You may need a frame spreader or jack of some kind to put a little pressure to get it in. Be careful where you put pressure
I personally put it at the trans front where it mounts to the bell housing at the clutch release shaft areas. It's pretty beefy at that point
I've never broken anything
If you think it's easier for you to remove muffler do so
With the trans jacked up on the wheeled jack it will move side to side slightly when you need it
Take your time, be patient, it will be fine. Good for you for switching back
If i am doing an extensive rework and they are at all an issue they come out and get returned to them with the other used parts

Larry Shepard

Re: Changing Engine Mounts Back to original
 

The brattons rubbers are made to the Ford prints. Get them, other vendors carry them too and they have Brattons molded into them.

The repro bolt and sleeve kit had an issue. The cotter pin did not engage the castle very well. I believe I used original nuts to fix the problem. I did not have any good bolts as they and the sleeve tend to rust.

Re: Changing Engine Mounts Back to original
 

See Pluck's reply in #1

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...7s+bratton%27s

Re: Changing Engine Mounts Back to original
 

I should add my problem was the nut was not tall enough to engage the cotter.

Re: Changing Engine Mounts Back to original
 

Thanks Larry just the sort of information I needed .
It will be interesting to see if the motor is any less smooth and if the judder I get in reverse will improve with original mounts -Karl

Re: Changing Engine Mounts Back to original
 

Most times there will be a bit of frame sag in the rear motor mount area . When the solid cross member that the original mounts create is replaced with float-A-motors some sag usually can occur. This and over eighty years of age causes the chatter. Sag at the rear mount area also causes the frame rails to move inward slightly. I recommend the use of a frame spreader if at all possible. Before I got my frame spreader I was forced at times to resort to a bumper jack,Very awkward and a porta power jack that worked better but not as good as the tool made for the job . Any time that the pads are replaced a frame spreader makes the job easier.

Re: Changing Engine Mounts Back to original
 

Although I was replacing original mounts, I found a small bottle jack between the frame and transmission to be all that I needed. It was much easier to put in the new rubber than to remove the old. The old rubber was almost welded to the frame and mounts. It took over three hours per side to tap (hammer gently) the old mounts out.

Re: Changing Engine Mounts Back to original
 

Karl,

Purdy brings up a good point in checking the frame for sag/mount sagging etc. You might want to take a photo or two for reference and check out where your torque tube is in relation to the brake cross shaft... make sure it's not close and especially on it. Look at the frame where the current mounts are to make sure there's no real sag in that area. If you have access to a frame spreader it does make it easier, if not a small bottle jack/porta power will do OK. If you were closer I'd sent you mine to borrow....

On the chatter it may be something clutch related, but can also be attributed to the mounts. A smooth resurfaced flywheel, new spring center clutch disc, and properly setup pressure plate with all the fingers adjusted correctly when bolted in will give you a silk smooth clutch. I have a trick to adjust the fingers in the car if need be. Let us know how things pan out.

Forgot to mention, when putting in the flywheel housing bolts it is best to not tighten all the way till you get them all started. It just depends on how it's going. A small inspection mirror to see where the threads are helps... Also, I use a low profile course tooth craftsman ratchet with a 3/4 socket to get the flywheel bolts in. Some of the fine tooths are too big.

I know Purdy and I are always on the same page... so I would heed his comments as well.
Best of luck!
Larry Shepard

Re: Changing Engine Mounts Back to original
 

Larry, we are on the same page and I agree completely. Thanks for the mention.