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Explain this! 1 Attachment(s)
I am restoring my '52 Ford F-7. I bought it in 1992 and it is a former fire truck. I have driven it extensively over the years. it was converted to 12v before I got it. it looks like all that was done for a conversion was to install an alternator, change the polarity, put a resistor on the coil and heater motor. There are no voltage reducers on the gauges and the gauges have worked correctly at all times. Attached is a pic of the cluster as it came out of the truck.
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Re: Explain this! WOW! I wish that would always work. I guess don't change a thing??
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Re: Explain this! There doesn't have to be reducers on each gage. Check to see if there is a later Ford style reducer on the feed side of the wire going to the gages.
If there isn't one, then putting in a reducer for the gages has been a waste of time for many of us. |
Re: Explain this! Hey Cecil that makes it easy to put back to 6 volts. G.M.
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Re: Explain this! I've seen several fire trucks that were already set up for 12-volts in that time frame. They had alternators on them too. There was a thread on here with a fire truck that had one of those old alternators on it.
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Re: Explain this! There are no reducers on this truck! It did have a generator new, because the wiring tells me so. They put a junction block where the regulator would have been to connect necessary wires together to complete the Bat wire to the alt. Its easy to see how the Bat wire could have been rerouted through the ammeter. The wiring is so bad, I don't know why it still ran and didn't burn. On a positive note, the cab is totally rust free, except for some minor surface rust on the floor around the brake filler hole. No rust repairs except on the front fenders. I guess that is what you get with a fire truck.
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Re: Explain this! Read up on the gauges in Flat Ernie's posts here and in the bulletins. Unlike most electric gauges, these are not controlled by resistance.
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