Brake Energizer question
 

I am installing C&G Fords brake energizer kit on my '38 sedan. The instructions are minimal. It says to remove the adjusting screws from the backing plates. Do these have to be drilled to get the adjuster out? I have everything apart to that point. It looks like you would have to drill the ridged plate off of the adjuster to get it out, but I wanted to post the question here first. Thanks, Fred

Re: Brake Energizer question
 

If you turn the adjuster wedge all the way clockwise it will pop the cover off of the housing and the adjuster will come out that way.

Re: Brake Energizer question
 

I installed them on my '36 but don't know if they're the same.On mine there is a small plug on the outward side of the backing plate that is opposite the adjuster.It looks like a small soft plug.To remove it I screwed the adjuster in until it pushed the plug out then,unscrewed the adjuster.The energizers work as well if not better than Hydraulics.IMO

Re: Brake Energizer question
 

I've got the dust cover and the adjuster internal piece out, but the kit requires that you remove the adjuster nut that goes out the backing plate. Thanks Fred

Re: Brake Energizer question
 

Maybe post a picture of what you are calling the adjuster nut. Not sure what that would be. I put brake equalizers/floaters on my '35 sedan last year. I removed the square ended adjuster wedge and dust cover like Don Rogers suggested. Everything supplied with the kit went right into place and no drilling of anything was required. Brakes now work as well as any '39-'48 Ford, with hydraulic brakes, that I have ever driven.

Re: Brake Energizer question
 

Yes, Don was correct, I guess I was expecting it to be harder......got the front done. Thanks guys!!

Re: Brake Energizer question
 

how about some pictures for us novices trying to install floater/energizers. I acquired some floaters in a box lot of ford parts and we are trying to fit them on a 34 Ford and we are confused!! instructions, drawings, pictures would sure help us. thanks

Re: Brake Energizer question
 

OK, keep in mind I'm a bit of a rookie and although I'm somewhat a perfectionist at most things, I'm working on a "driver" here and mostly going for a roadworthy 38 sedan. I exchanged the 35-36 brake springs for the 39 springs which only need a little removed from each hooked end in order to work nicely on my 38 shoes. Once installed they can be adjusted through the hole in the back of the backing plate. I have seen a great improvement in stopping power with this roughly $70 upgrade.Attachment 187932

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Re: Brake Energizer question
 

Fred, Way to go!
Now, take a cutoff wheel to the adjusters so you can reinstall them from the backside. They make perfect dustcovers and look original. Use some pipe dope to keep them from vibrating out, the threads work so smooth.
Reinstall the inner dustcover and you're done!

Re: Brake Energizer question
 

Alan,
Thanks for the tips on cleaning up this installation!!
Fred

Re: Brake Energizer question
 

I don't see the reason for this conversion for 37-38 brakes. Converting the rod brakes ok, but the cable brakes are floating from the factory. As far as I can tell the two return springs near the adjuster have been swapped for one spring and the adjuster changed so it doesn't look factory. Not trying to step on anyone here, but what's the point?

Re: Brake Energizer question
 

Nice pictorials, will help others on their install. Words all good pic's great.
Thx

Re: Brake Energizer question
 

Like I said, I'm a rookie at most of this. The new adjuster has some movement that the stock did not have. With everything together you can move the entire set back and forth where the stock setup would not. I don't know for sure what this does when I apply my brakes, but the difference is very noticeable from my stock setup. I suppose if I had taken everything apart, cleaned everything and replaced any parts with the slightest wear, I could have produced the stopping power I was looking for. I'm good with my choice, but I think I will go ahead and plug the adjuster and dust cover holes. Thanks for the help. Fred.