Oil Pan Installation
 

Finished my second attempt installing a new engine oil pan cork gasket. Tied the cork gasket to 4 or 5 bolt holes in the block area. Did not grease it, oil it or use gasket maker. It stayed just right and didn't squeeze out as my first attempt did. Used a small amount of Permatex gasket maker, back on the rear wrap around gasket where it fits in and up against the main gasket tabs, dabbed a little gasket maker on the front rope gasket edges. Bolted the pan up, snugged the bolts in and waited until this AM to let the gasket maker set up. Then re-snugged the bolts up again (not much - just right). Took the "A" out today. Went about 80 miles. All seemed A OK. After supper, I just checked the garage floor and I am dripping (very little) again. Looks like it is coming from the real main area. I have to look closer again, maybe dripping from the bell housing.

Someone said, this is normal for a Model A.....they're just like the old Harley's, they're suppose to leak a little on the floor.

Re: Oil Pan Installation
 

some spotting is normal. If it drips more than a quarter size puddle, something is loose.
see this:
http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.c...RMAINLEAK.html

Re: Oil Pan Installation
 

Thanks, Pat - looks like the rear main area is allowing some crank case oil to pass through. Not much, maybe an ounce after driving a few miles. Took it up to Home Depot today (22 miles round trip) and after I got home, I checked again and it continued to leak the same.
Dave

Re: Oil Pan Installation
 

An ounce in a few miles is a big oil loss.

Re: Oil Pan Installation
 

If the pan gasket is touching the oil slinger when it is all assembled, it will wipe oil off the slinger. Some of this oil may find its way out of the engine, especially if the return drain to the pan is restricted. Take care here.
There is a larger diameter tube available but when installing that, you should remove the small plug in the bearing cap and at least clean out the passages inside. I enlarge them. As a last resort (short of pulling the pan off again), I have had great success with a tube running from the engine to the inlet manifold so as to give a vacuum in the motor. You may attach it to the manifold anywhere after the carb and maybe at the filler cap or valve chamber cover at the engine end. Keep the hole small - just enough to keep a vacuum in there. This sucks the oil back into the motor from the rear main bearing without upsetting the intake side of things.

Re: Oil Pan Installation
 

Tom W :
I didn't measure the oil on the floor. It's just on a paper mat on the floor. I will have to really measure the actual oil loss. I may be exaggerating, you know how oil seems to just spread out.

Synchro 909 :
Your suggestion sounds like a good idea. I will look at that theory and maybe give it a try.

Dave

Re: Oil Pan Installation
 

if it is not leaking then it is empty

Re: Oil Pan Installation
 

Dave, Let us all know how you go with the vacuum line. It's basically a PCV without the V (valve) but a suitable valve is preferred by some. I don't use one.
Synchro909 (in Australia)