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Oil Viscosity question My engine is tired. How thick can I go on the oil (warm weather operation) and still have it flow down the tubes to lube the main bearings etc. The engine is not full of sludge, I have had the oil pan and side cover off already. I would like to get a little more use out of it while I finish rebuilding another to replace it. Interested in other people's experiences. Thanks.
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Re: Oil Viscosity question I am running 10-40 in my Model T. The inside oil line is about 1/4 ID. the oils a bit stiff when cold but get to the front.
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Re: Oil Viscosity question 20-50w will work
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Re: Oil Viscosity question 50W will work
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Re: Oil Viscosity question I used non-detergent 50 in my old and worn-out-engine for summer operation
No filter; New oil every 800miles. As requested, I do use 10 W40 with my actual engine all around the year With filter and one change each year (about every 6000 miles) Have fun "Tired" does not mean it is going to fail soon.... Dont push and it will go lots of additional miles. |
Re: Oil Viscosity question Im pretty sure you will struggle to change the engine than,
as the old one still will be going. |
Re: Oil Viscosity question My old Plymouth had a worn out flathead-6 that needed a quart of 40- weight every 60 miles. For summer use, I found an aircraft 60-weight oil and was able to go 100 miles on a quart.
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Re: Oil Viscosity question I woulduse 30 wt oil nolighter no ,good luck
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Re: Oil Viscosity question If you go too high, you'll loose any cold start protection.
Get the lowest first number you can, with the second number just high enough to lower the oil consumption. 15W-40 or 20W-50 if it burns a lot (I don't think 50 comes with a lower W rating, unfortunetly) Going really thick will wear it faster, as there won't be enough flow. Any high viscosity straight weights won't have much flow when cold. |
Re: Oil Viscosity question If you really want to go extreme, use 0W-50 synthetic. Polaris sells it for atv use...
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Re: Oil Viscosity question I use Walmart brand 20w50. It works good for me in all of my model A engines. Zinc sure doesn't hurt but isn't necessary in engines with a forged camshaft. Model A's have a forged cam.
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Re: Oil Viscosity question And low valve spring pressure.
Paul in CT |
Re: Oil Viscosity question Quote:
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Re: Oil Viscosity question I use a straight 40 wt detergent oil, along with a qt of lucas engine oil supp. have used this for 12 yrs. have taken oil samples in for testing and all the copper and aluim. content has dropped @30 percent or more from the first couple of years that I didn't use it ,I only drive the 50 ford from april to oct. I put on @ 1500 miles a year, best combo I ever used
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Re: Oil Viscosity question Thanks for all the great replies. I think I will try some 20w50, I have had success with it in worn but pressure lubricated engines. I was curious about the A engine since the oil is not forced to the bearings by the pump but relies on gravity for the mains.
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Re: Oil Viscosity question Quote:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ |
Re: Oil Viscosity question Quote:
synthetic oil of any weight is the same viscosity as conventional oil, it would have no reason to 'blow threw seals". Just as 0W40 is the same viscosity hot as 10w40, it simply doesn't get as thick as it cools which is beneficial to any engine out there. |
Re: Oil Viscosity question Last thing I would worry about is the oil "blowing through the seals." There aren't any-at least as we know them in modern engines.
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