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Distributor question 1 Attachment(s)
I thought this thing was supposed to have a short shaft that fits into a notched longer shaft. What do I have here? I pulled at it, but it looks like it's pinned at the top. Thought I would ask the gods of fordbarn before I break out the punches.
Also, what's the trick to getting the oil pump/distributor gear out of the block? I removed the spring and lifted it up, but it seems to long to get the clearance needed to pull it free. Maybe I'm holding my mouth wrong. |
Re: Distributor question Thanks 1930 coupe. Guess I'll break out the punches and look into putting it back to the original setup. I'll have to wiggle on that gear some more!
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Re: Distributor question From the photo it looks like it could be a two-piece shaft. They may be rusted together at the connection. Try to gently separate them.
Tom Endy |
Re: Distributor question to remove the oil pump/distributor drive gear you need to turn the shaft counter clockwise as you pull up on the shaft.This is because the gears are cut on an angle.
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Re: Distributor question Or was that, clockwise? .....Hmmm
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Re: Distributor question Exploded views in parts catalogs are about all you need to take things apart, Model A's are SO SIMPLE!!
Bill W. |
Re: Distributor question Ford started with the one piece shaft and later switched to the two piece. The two piece has more flex and prevented binding issues.
Think as the bearings wore and the slight mis-alignment on a solid shaft caused the points to have unequal gap. The two piece decouples the the alignment. |
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Re: Distributor question I'll admit to being torn between the whole "two piece shaft vs one piece shaft" debate. But I also find it hard to believe that Henry, a guy who made a carb with one bolt holding together, would put a unnecessary extra shaft in the engine if he felt he could get away with one single.
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Re: Distributor question I was always under the impression that the one piece shaft was "aftermarket." But your comment on the carburetor is so FORD.
Someone with an early Parts Book could see if a one piece shaft was available early. (Mine is the reprint of the Late Model A/Model B/Model 18 period.) Joe K |
Re: Distributor question I find to get the gear out is to remove the sleeve. See Bratton's 9550 P.43. There is a very small pin that holds it on-don't lose it!! Hope this helps.
Sewall Tyler |
Re: Distributor question umm the side cover is off, right? it should slip right out....
your pic is of the other side of the motor so we can't tell.... |
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Re: Distributor question Vermin's engine was built by a reputable local engine rebuilder in 1987 & has, maybe 40 miles on it. The oil pump locating pin was peened over, so the pump wouldn't fall out when dropping the pan.
The oil pump drive gear housing had NO hold down spring, & wouldn't slip up out of the block. I "wonder" if the builder center punched it, & "maybe" used Loctite to keep it securely in place?? "Maybe" that was common practice with rebuilders?? Bill W. |
Re: Distributor question 1987 and Loctite???
Paul |
Re: Distributor question Sometimes, when the valve cover is removed, the gasket sticks to the block and covers the notch along the top edge where the distributer drive gear slides out.I've seen this when an engine hasn't been apart for 50 years and the gasket is so hard it appears to be part of the block.
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Re: Distributor question Quote:
Bill W. |
Re: Distributor question Just keep working on the drive gear, it'll come out. But not only does the mouth have to be set just right, so does the tongue. Once those two are right and the moon is in the proper phase it'll pop right out.
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Re: Distributor question what Ray said
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