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1929 Model A body block question I'm currently in the process of bolting my 29 sport coupe body to an original model a frame. I recently ordered body blocks from Mac's and have discovered that they sent one incorrect block. The rear most block that they sent me has a notch in it. I believe this block is for a phaeton or a sedan. Since I'm only bolting this to the original frame to square the body and brace it. I'm trying to find out if this block is the correct height for a coupe. The block that I have measures 1 15/16" I messaged wrndin on here and he thought they were the same height. Anyone know for sure?
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps8a8c8e5a.jpg |
Re: 1929 Model A body block question I have a set of coupe and phaeton (tudor also) rear body blocks. I can measure both of them for height and post the measurements this afternoon or tomorrow. The block in the picture is definately a rear tudor/phaeton block, not a coupe/roadster.
Rusty Nelson |
Re: 1929 Model A body block question That would be greatly appreciated, thanks for the help.
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Re: 1929 Model A body block question I measured the height of the rearmost body block on my 28 special coupe (in that area it is identical to a 28/29 sports coupe) this morning. The body block is 1 15/16" high like your tudor/phaeton blocks. However, if I were you, I would not use the rear blocks you have. The reason is that there is really not a lot of support using a 3" body block verses the long block Ford went to in 30/31 that also fit 28/29 coupes and roadsters. I am not sure how long the long rear blocks are (I could measure mine if needed), but I believe they are at least 12" long. The longer block distribute the weight over a larger area of the subrails. I used the longer rear blocks on my coupe for this reason. My subrails where the rear body blocks fit were cracked and split when I got my coupe, mostly, I believe, due to the short body blocks not providing adequate support. In addition, there is even less support using a tudor/phaeton rear block as 1/4 of the top is cut away, making the short block even less supportive than the original solid 3" block. Just my opinion.
BTW, the longer rear body block would be very easy to make with a table or radial arm saw. It is just a rectangle block with all straight sides. I am almost 100% sure the width is the same has you tudor/phaeton blocks. Rusty Nelson |
Re: 1929 Model A body block question Thanks for all your help Rusty I will make some new blocks.
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Re: 1929 Model A body block question A couple weeks ago I posted about being in the same predicament as you with the most "rearward" block being for a Phaeton (according to the instructions). A longer block was NOT in the kit.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...010#post749010 I thought about making a longer block too, but that block in question sits on the rear-frame which is only 3 inches wide. So a block more than 3 inches long would be "over kill"........Right? So I decided to go ahead and use the Phaeton block. I hope I'm making the right decision. |
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Re: 1929 Model A body block question Quote:
So far I've only made the "decision"; I haven't actually done anything yet. I'll probably sit back and ponder this thing a while. |
Re: 1929 Model A body block question Idaho Brett,
I don't understand you comment "I thought about making a longer block too, but that block in question sits on the rear-frame which is only 3 inches wide.". The width of the subrails has no effect on the rear body blocks as the block fit the long way, unlike the blocks that fit in the body crossmembers. In fact the block could be much longer than the 12" or so I think they are. If I were you I would use the simple to make longer rear body blocks. BTW, if you got the phaeton/tudor rear body blocks when you ordered a coupe or roadster block kit, I would call the parts supplier and them them they have a problem. Rusty Nelson |
Re: 1929 Model A body block question Update on my original post. After finding out that I was also missing the second to the rear block also I called Macs. (I ordered the correct it 10pic set but they only sent me 8 blocks two I will not use) The short block is what they send with the coupe kit, and I was told it is correct. (pictured above)
My sub rails are cracked out in that area so my car (28-29) may have had a short block in the back. However I wouldn't use that block if I was building a stock model a. I would make a longer block to evenly distribute the weight. Then only thing I was concerned about was if it was the correct height. I'm only mounting this body to a stock frame to square it up. Then I will be mounting it to a deuce frame so I will have to rebuild the sub rails in back anyhow. |
Re: 1929 Model A body block question As I recall, the longer block on the Coupe is a service improvement over the original length. The subrail of my '30 Coupe was badly cracked from flexing with the original shorter block installed. I have over 75K miles with the longer block installed and have not had any cracking of the restored subrail. Gar Williams
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