First Flathead
 

So I finally opened up my flatty to inspect the crank and internals recently. I'm pretty new to the flathead world and I'm learning as I go.
I've spent some time looking thru past posts and wanted some advice to unfree my engine block.
I used some pb blaster and wd40 to coat the internals for a few weeks and still haven't been able to spin the crank by hand.
With the attached photos what would be the best plan of attack to get my internals to rotate with tearing the entire block down?

Re: First Flathead
 

Hi Everyone. jjk Welcome to the FordBarn Forums!

I am NOT an engine mechanic. But, if I had intentions of making that engine run again, I would not try to make it spin, especially under force, but that's just me. Too much foreign material for my taste. I think you asked about 'without tearing the block down'. Me, I'd have to think long about trying to get to where I'd run that without a good cleaning.

To tackle your question, there was a thread that showed using an accelerant (diesel or other) poured into a cylinder at BDC and lit off. Of course done outside. That seemed like one exciting way. Another thread suggested (with the engine in the car) a jack under a bar/socket on the end of the crank, applied over extended time. Both ideas are things for other people to try on their stuff, so sorry if not all that helpful. Welcome anyway!

Hey, an idea... Some folks add a little 'wanted' thingy to their automatic signature. Check your user settings. Maybe the unobtanium body part comes that way? Reference to this long-time wanted advert: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85450

EDIT TO ADD: Looked at photos again. I see a hint that the engine has been apart before, not earth-shattering, I know. I believe there would be safety wire on the castle-nuts of the main bearing caps. Just a hint.

Re: First Flathead
 

JJK
Make a 50/50 mixture of Marvel Mystery Oil and acetone.
Put a tub under the block and soak rods, mains, and pistons. after a couple of days turn the block upright and soak the pistons from the top. You did not indicate if you had removed the heads, or valves.
Bruce

Re: First Flathead
 

Use Auto transmission Fluid and Acetone.Works just as well and more COST Effective.

Re: First Flathead
 

Many times, stuck valves are the problem.

Re: First Flathead
 

That crank shaft looks kind of crusty with all that surface rust on it. I would tear it down and clean it up before attempting to start it. I agree with others that the rings are rusted to the cylinder walls and/or a couple of valves are frozen.

Re: First Flathead
 

Remove all rods nuts and caps, a few you cain't get at, remove all main bearing nuts and caps, hook a chain on the snout of the crank, hook chain on a stud on the back of the crank, under chain fall, pull the crank up about 2 inch, now you can get at the rod ruts you cain't get at, lift the crank up and out. Roll engine over, spry some rust remover on the top of pistons, let set day or too, take block bloke of wood and drive pistons down the hole. Walt

Re: First Flathead
 

From the looks of the cylinder in the third picture you need to rebuild it, you will not get it to turn over without breaking rings. Bet sure to mark each rod cap and rod to keep them together, they are machined as a unit.

Re: First Flathead
 

Sure getting it to "spin" would be a "happy moment". Reality is that taking it apart is going to have to be necessary soon. As others have said you could just end up damaging some surfaces. Unless you are just wanting to get it going and plan on a full teardown "soon" I would weigh the possibility of new damage verses the "happy moment". Pull the engine and get it on a engine stand so you can really dig in. Caution, do not bolt it to the stand using bell housing holes.
Welcome to the forum. There are a bunch of folks who will walk you through the entire adventure. Search the posts and pick up Ol' Ron's and John Larson's Books as well as a Ford motor manual to refer to along the way.

Re: First Flathead
 

The heads are off haven't taken the vales out yet and the cylinder walls appear to be very smooth. from the top side.

Re: First Flathead
 

I agree I have no intentions of breaking anything and time is on my side. I have it mounted on a stand using the exhaust mount.

Re: First Flathead
 

OK, now the fun part. This engine came with dloating bearing rod bearings, These are very expensive now. On the plus side, they maybe reusable. However they must be reused with the same rods and crank throw. I've rebuilt many of thes engines sing the original bearings. Keep the caps on the same rods they came off of and in the sane direction. the maines are available in most sizes. Rotating the engine mught be a bad idea now. You can remove the cam gear, as some of the valves are probably stuck.. Lota good help here on the barn.

Re: First Flathead
 

Thank you Ron that seems to be the general consensus , I'll be sure to update my findings as I dive deeper.

Re: First Flathead
 

Marvel Marvel Marvel!!!! Worked wonders on mine.