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Water Outlet Question Just back into Model A's and trying to get a '29 back on the road. Fitted a new head gasket, and torqued the head using the correct sequence and torque stages, ending up at 55 lbs all around. Unfortunately, I have apparently cracked one of the mounting ears on the water outlet, will need to replace it. I had heard that eliminating the gasket and just using silicone RTV on both bare surfaces is the best way to go, but only after I already had fitted a gasket. New outlet is on the way. Any suggestions on what to do to not repeat this would be greatly appreciated. Also, am I correct in assuming that all cylinder head nuts will need to be fully loosened and the tightening sequence redone in its entirety? Appreciate the help!
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Re: Water Outlet Question Quote:
You won't need to loosen all of the head studs, just the two that hold the outlet. Re torque to 55 ftlb and you're good. |
Re: Water Outlet Question Many thanks!!
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Re: Water Outlet Question The water outlet was NOT one of Fords' "BETTER IDEAS"!
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Re: Water Outlet Question Hey, he saved two bolts and probably sold a lot of water outlets.
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Re: Water Outlet Question I just flat file the mating services, and then use non-hardening per-matex. Doesn't leak and have not broke a ear off since. Have done a hundred or more. I don't like the silicon.
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Re: Water Outlet Question Quote:
I've never used a gasket and never broken an outlet. I didn't like the look of the arrangement when I first saw it so I threw the gasket. |
Re: Water Outlet Question Copper or no gasket, and no breaks. Paper gasket will break it every time.
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Re: Water Outlet Question I appreciate all the help. I like permatex #2 as well, and will go that route.
Again, many thanks! |
Re: Water Outlet Question If you use RTV, I'd suggest ultra black by permatex. It doesn't peel off like the stuff of the past.
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