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-   -   Pressing steering worm upper race to shaft (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=134342)

Curt Campbell 03-18-2014 02:26 PM

Pressing steering worm upper race to shaft
 

Have looked thru search...not much there. What is the best method for securing the steering shaft so I can press on the upper bearing race....2 tooth 31 gemmer. Have heard of temporarily welding heavy washer to the shaft to secure it in the press.

What is best way...have new shaft and dont want to touch the shaft threads.

Thanks in advance....Curt

Mitch//pa 03-18-2014 03:05 PM

Re: Pressing steering worm upper race to shaft
 

read this thread
http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...ight=worm+gear

it works great getting the worm on the shaft

Roserock49 06-01-2014 12:28 AM

Re: Pressing steering worm upper race to shaft
 

Curt

MAFCA sells a DVD showing how to replace the 2 tooth worm gear.

tbirdtbird 06-01-2014 05:39 AM

Re: Pressing steering worm upper race to shaft
 

haha why wait for a vid when Mitch has a couple pix linked that show just how to do it?

Joe K 06-01-2014 06:14 AM

Re: Pressing steering worm upper race to shaft
 

Also, one has to be VERY careful to "recreate" the steering shaft as they found it. With at least 3 different lengths of Gemmer/Ford shafts (and corresponding light switches) one has to get it EXACTLY right.

The aftermarket shafts are not "made to length" and will require pressing on the worm to lesser or greater degrees to do this.

Vince Falter has a MOST EXCELLENT chart showing the three different kinds of Gemmer (2 tooth) steering shafts/worm assemblies. See http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/stee...twormchart.htm But your best guidance would be to carefully measure what you have now and duplicate it.

I have done removal of the worm by inserting the entire steering shaft in a 5' piece of 1" pipe (with the worm remaining exposed at the upper end) and then smartly "thumping" the entire assembly down at one end on a concrete floor. Inertia carries the shaft out of the worm.

Putting back I have yet to do and have speculated on use of a stout clamp to hold the steering shaft just below where the worm is applied (and get past any "buckling" of the thin steering shaft when held end for end.) But the "thread the end" method shown in the link above has much to recommend - and when it is all assembled who can tell how the steering shaft was modified?

I might use fine (SAE) thread on the "puller inner" though. Check your shaft hole size to see if you have at least 75 percent thread form engagement (diametrially.)

Joe K


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