Pulling engine
 

Hey all, question of convenience, Pa. guy, it’s cold & no heat in garage so wanna be out there at a min, lol! I’m ready to pull engine in ‘35 w ‘49 8BA While putting engine in no interior w floor plates removed was easy to do w Tranny mounted. Im thinking of separating at the Bell housing to engine interface leaving bell in car and pulling engine as I would have to remove bell before placing on index stand. Good, bad, easier harder, issues reinstalling engine? For sure don’t wanna pull Tranny!

Re: Pulling engine
 

I prefer to leave the tranny in the car. Especially with visual access through the floor. It is so much easier to line everything up that way, when going back together. Ive done it this way too many times to count.

Re: Pulling engine
 

Pulling it as separate parts isn't an issue. Getting everything aligned when reinstalling will be the challenge. Remove however it seems to work best for you. Wait for warmer weather to put things back.

Re: Pulling engine
 

Anthony....In your case with an 8BA, I would separate at the transmission to bell connection. This will keep the half bell, starter and starter plate together as an assembly during removal. More importantly, it will facilitate simplicity when replacing the engine in that you will not have to fumble with aligning the starter plate and starter while trying to align everything else during the mating (while laying on your back under the car)! Plus, separating at the trans/bell juncture requires the removal of only 8 bolts while laying under the car, vs about 13 bolts at the engine/bell juncture PLUS the starter.

Re: Pulling engine
 

I use a piece of flat stock , put it across the wish bones and let the trans rest on that, makes it easier and less chance of hurting the rear of trans

Re: Pulling engine
 

Edited after reading V8COOPMAN
Thx, got it. The starter & starter plate was the area I was concerned about.

Re: Pulling engine
 

Engine got stuck coming out on spline, gave up tonite but will loosen Tranny mount a bit tomorrow & Jack Tranny front a bit.

Re: Pulling engine
 

Deleted! DD

Re: Pulling engine
 

Ditto, I use a length of pipe.

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I used to piece of wood across the wishbones and it did really good. when it came to pulling the transmission out laying under the car a couple of the bolts for the torque tube cap were a real pain to get to.

Re: Pulling engine
 

There is a fair chance that the clutch disk got wedged out of alignment with the pilot bearing during that hung up removal. Be sure to get the disk perfectly aligned before attempting to reinstall. I use an old transmission front shaft to do that, but you can also buy an alignment tool that duplicates that front shaft.

And the front of the transmission will needed to be jacked up a bit above its normal rest position to make alignment go easier as you attempt that last two inches.

Re: Pulling engine
 

That is why I leave the tranny in the car if it does not need work. I hate dealing with the dam u-joint. Even if I did pull the tranny with the engine, i would put the tranny back in separately.

Re: Pulling engine
 

Not me - I pull the engine with the trans and put it back in the same way. Using a side-mount engine adapter, this makes it easy to put the clutch in, align the tranny and bolt it up, test the clutch release (with a pipe or something) and make sure everything is right. Then I put it together as a complete assembly into the car. It really doesn't take much to align the rear transmission mount, slip the u-joint onto the drive shaft and finish the install. I've definitely done it the other way - hate having to try to align the engine and transmission input shaft - pain in the butt. The u-joint at the back end is easier in my mind . . .

Re: Pulling engine
 

Got it out no prob. Hydraulic jack under bell side of Tranny. Slight upper move aligned & slid right out. Hanging on cherry picker 4 now. Pulled off starter & Bell housing. Need longer 7/16” bolts to put on indexing engine stand. Done for a few. Wil put on stand Sunday & start the repair.

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Don't forget that pan bolt that holds that little starter brace if you are leaving the starter plate in the car. Chap

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Back in the day we used to screw 2 guide pins which were just bolts with the heads cut off at 3 oclock and 9 oclock into the bell housing to help align the engine to the trans. It made the job easier.

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Fyi, even though still aggravated having to deal w bad ring in a cyl on an engine a professional builder built 2000 miles ago, I’m glad I pulled the engine now. As I noticed centrifugal grease streaks on clutch plate. It was about a 1/4” away from clutch pads so wasn’t effecting anything yet but a couple hundred more miles & I’d have lost the clutch & Probly messed up FW & PP too. Closer inspection showed the sealed Thrust Bearing went bad & was letting grease streak out on the spline & clutch plate. I have purple Tranny gear oil in trans & this was color of green mint jelly & could see it coming out of thrust / Throwout bearing. Originally bought at Macs Auto Parts on line 5+ yrs ago. I’ll b calling VanPelt’s Sales to replace w one that’ll last.

Re: Pulling engine
 

Make sure you get a recognised brand of bearing, in the kits from a reputable rebuilder the bearing was Chinese and cr**,
Lawrie

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Im will be buying a new Thrust bearing from Vsnpeltsales.com I’ll call first& get their recommendation for best one! Have played w my ‘35 for 5 yrs now & been on the Barn about the same I know I can trust them after reading many threads from M VanPelt who we all know on FB. Being honest I bought the Thrust Bearing 5 yrs ago near beginning of project when new to Early Ford V8’s & FB. Very Green @!the time like the grease in the Chinese Thrust Bearing :)

Re: Pulling engine
 

Rumbleseat (Paul Garrigan RIP) always replaced the grease in any of the

throwout bearings that he used with a quality grease. I can't find it now, but somewhere here on the "Barn", someone posted how he did it.
Ken