Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

What are your opinions regarding equipment and changes for turning a stock Model "A" into 1930s street banger?

As soon as my 190A restoration is done later this year, my 1931 Coupe will start a transformation to a 1930's era street banger.

My Coupe already has a Model "B" engine. Here are my thoughts about changes for the Coupe:
> 6:1 compression cylinder head with a steel McCord gasket;
> Reground Model "B" camshaft for more torque in the 2000 to 3000 motor rpm range;
> Single downdraft Model 94 carburetor with stock Ford V8 jets power valve;
> Mallory YA11 Distributor with dual points & centrifugal advance;
> 12-volt electrical system with at least a 60-amp alternator;
> Pertronix 40611 coil with 12V primary & 40,000 volt secondary;
> Walker radiator pressurized @ 3 to 6 psig;
> Electric radiator cooling fan;
> Coolant overflow retention tank;
> Electric coolant pump;
> TT10 Spark Plugs with 0.027" gap;
> 1932 18" Ford wheels with 5.50-18 tires at 28 psig;
> Modern telescoping shocks;
> Flathead Ted's brake floaters;
> 1932 radiator shell;
> Lightened flywheel & V8 clutch;
> Stock Model "A" transmission & 3.78:1 differential.

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

Bob,

I like the 12 volt idea but what are you going to do with all of those extra amps (have you got some real loud music planned?)? I hate the look of an alternator (maybe that is just me, definitely not 1930's era). The really get that many amps the fan belt must be tight and that is hard on the water pump. Since you are 12 volts check out the "Brite" bulbs from Ron Francis Wire Works, https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=B%2D1125, (800) 292-1940. I have these bulbs in my '32 roadster and am very happy with them. When working with the radiator and shell remember that the radiator cap is in a different location between 1931 and 1932. I solved the problem on my '32 by using a walker radiator designed for a shaved '32 shell (are you going to shave yours?) and attaching a dummy cap to the shell with a strap from the bottom. The real radiator cap is pressurized and located under the hood. I don't like the look of an electric fan (definitely not 1930's era), what about a polished reproduction aluminum fan? Why upgrade to an electric coolant pump (definitely not 1930's era), the stock type should be fine? I think I would go with 3.54 gears in the rear end but it depends on how you plan to drive it.

Charlie Stephens

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

I pretty much agree w/ what Charlie said, the electric fan would kill it. I understand the alternator thing, both ways. I dont particularly like the look of it, but I have one on one of my cars, for the cheapness/functionality. Another option would be to run a 12V generator off a 56 Ford car. MOST people would look right over that.
You didnt mention a header??
Do you already have 18" wheels? How about tires? You might find that big and little 16's would look good and be cheaper.
Juice brakes or stick w/ mechanical?
Good Luck with your project! I hope you post some pics as you go along.

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

Rex,

I agree that hydraulic brakes should be considered, I would run early Ford hydraulics or the reproduction Lincoln units from MT Car Products (if the stock market turns around, http://www.mtcarproducts.com/MODEL-A-KIT.html). I like your suggestion for big & littles on 16 inch rims, I prefer bent spoke Kelsey's.

Charlie Stephens

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

I would use a new Stipe 330 or 340 cam, not a reground. Not a fan of electric fans on a model A (no pun intended). I like the idea of a polished aluminum fan. I would also consider a 3.27 rear gear. If you are using 12 volts, a mini alternator from a jap car or a kabota tractor look good. My buddy has one on his MGTD with a flathead 60 ford motor.
Are you going to the new england meet next weekend?

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

Personally, I like Stromberg carburetors. I would consider a 97 or a 48 which are much less pricy. Most everything else you have listed looks good to me EXCEPT, I am not a big fan of electric cooling pumps and electric fans. These items just kill the vintage look and are not necessary with the engine you are running.

Please understand, This is JUST MY OPINION and I am sure others will have different thoughts.

Chris W.

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

Bob has gone to the dark side! :eek:

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

Thanks all for your comments. I did stray from the 1930s with the electric stuff, and I did it because of I am fed-up fixing Model "A" & Model "B" water pumps. As for the 60 plus amps of alternator, I plan to use an electric heater in the car, halogen headlights and a fog light.

Hi Mike,

I have always been a hot rodder at heart. My Coupe was going to be a hot rod, but I lost my license back in the early 1960s, so my parents said the Model A will remain stock or it goes. That event sent me down the road of restoring the Coupe much like Henry built it.

For a while I had speed goodies on my Coupe, and I enjoyed cruising the interstates at 60 mph, but my wife said I drive too fast and she did not feel comfortable cruising out of town in it

2many cars,
I will be at the New England Meet next week. I have been to all of them since 1986.

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

Bob:
I have been to many of the new england meets, but fewer as I get older. Here is a photo of me at the 1971 new england meet held in Wallingford, CT. The meet was much simpler then, and also had a good flea market, car games, and a smaller crowd.

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

The first four items on your list will give you a great increase in power and make the car much more drivable. Stromberg carbs are more traditional, and less fussy about tuning. Strombergs do cost more than 94's , in either original or reproduction. All the other items on your list are unnessary and will detract from a period hot rod theme. Leakless water pump should solve all your pump problems. I just installed a custom made exhaust, using a Smithy glass pack and a 2" tail pipe.( it made a difference in power, not too loud). If you need heat, a manifold heater will drive you right out of the car.

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

Bob,

I think I would go with a 1930's era hot water heater like an Arvin. I would go with a 12 volt generator because I just don't like the look of an alternator.

Charlie Stephens

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

To each his OWN-------------------------------.
Bill W.

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

Bob did you consider A/C for those hot days . LMAO

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

Your plan sounds good to me although I would use a higher rear end ratio or better yet an overdrive. 60 amps is more than enough but more is better than not enough. I prefer Strombergs too, but to each his own. Have fun!

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

I would add a Stipe 340 cam and 1=3/4 intake valves with a little porting.

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

I have a touring engine with hc head,larger intakes, 97 carb and Stipe 330 cam in my Tudor. I would second some kind of overdrive. I have a 4speed overdrive transmission and 3.78 gears. The overdrive makes touring enjoyable and tha all sychro is good in traffic. I also have MT car Bendix brakes. I have no trouble with the stock distributor with good quality point,and a leakless water pump. I have driven 22,000 miles including over the Rockies with no breakdowns. Enjoy your A however you build it.

John

Re: Ideal Street & Touring Speed Equipment Setup
 

An early Hot Rod A might also use an aftermarket intake with a big updraft Zenith. You might be able to reverse a downdraft single intake to do this.