The F3 Head This summer I purchased a huge pile of rusty metal that was the part of an A estate that no one else wanted. I sold, scrapped, and found new homes for a lot of it. I have kept a few treasures for my self. One of these treasures is an F3 "B" head. I havent examined it real close for cracks and such,just put it on the shelf for "Someday".
Today I did a little research and didn't find much. What I did find is that it is assumed to be a later Ford replacement head that has a heavier casting than the "C" head. Someone had said it gave their AA more pep, in an old post on here. So can we beat this dead horse a little more? What is the F3 head? Does anyone know its compression ratio? Will it give more "pep"? Anyone running one? Some feedback would be greatly appreciated. As always Thanks for your input |
Re: The F3 Head It has the more efficient heart shaped combustion chamber. Go to http--dynosheets.htmmodelaparts.net This is the Piranio's dyno tests. scroll don to stock model A with C head. The F3 head has been claimed to only be 4.6 compression ratio, if this is true the F3 head is the same as the C head. The test shows 46.77 horsepower at 2200 RPM . this is nearly seven horse power, add an .080 overbore and it will be seven or more horsepower. add a B cam, carb and manifold and it should put out as much horsepower as a stock B at 50 hp. I could feel a good difference with this setup on uncle Albert, a double A that I had. I've still got the engine sitting in the back corner of my shop
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Re: The F3 Head Thanks Purdy
Thats the info I was searching for. Almost 7hp look out!!:) Is there a source for B water pumps? |
Re: The F3 Head Try Berts 800-321-1931 . They've probably got them in used or rebuilt cond. The model B pumps are just as easy to rebuild as the model A pumps. They both use the same parts, the only difference is the length of the model A pump shaft. I shorten the model A pump shaft and use it. There are two different length B style pump housings. The 1932 style lines up with the model A pulleys. The 33-34 pumps are a little shorter so as to allow for the laid back radiator and grill on the later models. The longer length 32 shaft will work in the 33-34 style pumps and won't be noticed with the fan in place. Its just a matter of shortening the model A water pump shaft to the length of the 32 B length. You use the B impeller
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Re: The F3 Head Good idea. I never would have thought of Berts for 32 parts but i guess B parts would still be inline (HAHA I made a funny)with their business. Before I buy a pump I should probably give the head a close inspection and a derusting.
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Re: The F3 Head I would also check for cracks. Most heads need a little trueing up after removal. I use to have them milled a little for this reason and to leave a good surface for the gasket to seal. I used a copper clad B gasket with mine, I can't remember the parts number. I have found leaving only .030 height in the counter bore gives an improvement to most heads. I didn't do this to mine but will if I ever need to remove it again. Some shave the counterbore completely away. I don't recommend this with a C head because they are so thin. The F3 heads do have a thicker better casting than the C heads.
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Re: The F3 Head Purdy
What do you think of using the V8 water pumps? Is there a way to mount a fan? |
Re: The F3 Head At one time I had three of the F3 heads that had been removed from Model-B engines that were used in industrial applications. The engines were all late 1930's Diamond blocks that magnafluxed out with so many cracks that I scrapped them. The F3 heads were all sound, well made, and crack free. The compression chambers looked exactly like that of the C heads and when I CC'd each of them they were identical to the 4.6 to 1 compression of a C head.
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Re: The F3 Head The 32 WP,s are available new.If you need a new impeller,don't buy a repro as they are not machined properly & will not allow the pump to go far enough into the head.I ended up using the impeller from a spare pump & Installing a 1/8" roll pin,which is a good idea with a new impeller as well.
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Re: The F3 Head |
Re: The F3 Head Quote:
Thanks Mike |
Re: The F3 Head Quote:
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Re: The F3 Head Not a show car at all. Just a driver that I like to tinker with and "improve" with upgrades like this. It seems as though the A motor with B parts is the hot set up. I have a B carb this head and I'm on the hunt for a distributor.
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Re: The F3 Head Quote:
Charlie Stephens |
Re: The F3 Head Thanks Charlie
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Re: The F3 Head Hes some pics of the head, they say it never happened if you don't have pics!LOL
http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps8bba22a0.jpg http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps62a8acd1.jpg http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps00f8cbcd.jpg And heres the start of my "poor boys" hop up kit;) http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/w...psa850b6b0.jpg |
Re: The F3 Head So what do you guys think? Mollasses bath for a couple weeks?
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Re: The F3 Head Yes, that should do it. I've found that keeping the molasses in a dark container in the hot sun helps a lot. When the temps dropped my molasses seemed to quit working.
I bought a couple 10 foot pieces of rebar the other day to use the electroysis rust removal on my mower deck. |
Re: The F3 Head Thats a great idea Tom. Its going to be in the low 100' and mid 90's for at least another week here. Hopefully it will work faster. Just the Sulphered Molasses cut with water? Right? Ive read 5 to 1 Hows that sound to you?
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Re: The F3 Head I think a 4 to1 or 3 to 1 mixture will work better. I wouldn't use sulphured molasses because the sulphur is added to inhibit microbial growth and it is the microbes that actually make this work. I used a animal grade molasses from a feed store. The key is hot weather, ideally 90 degrees or higher, but it will work down to around 70 degrees albeit slower and less effectively.
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